For some months now the WinCo Generator has been sitting on this overloaded cart. The intention had been to attach the chain to the ceiling so it would prevent the WinCo from hitting the floor should the cart fail. That was lame and never happened.
This cart was originally an AV center at the local high school. It was buried in clutter over at the other shop so I liberated it to hold the WinCo.
The AV cart is much more suited to the WinCo. Tomorrow I will get a picture of the generator on its new cart.
Attached to the generator was this service tag. It was an even shade of brown but a light brushing revealed the name of service shop still in business in Amarillo Tx.
Loosely following the method used by ShopDogSam in his IH 1 1/2 HP build I polished the rod journal which is shared by all 3 rods. It is a 1" journal and measures quite close to that. Have to see what it reads when I finish polishing it. That strip was too wide but the only one I took a picture of..
The polished crank is not an easy thing to photograph. It looks a lot better in person. Here it looks like I polished rust.
In the sunlight it looks like this. Still needs work.
This rod journal had been hammered so bad that there was some mushrooming which I flattened. Need to figure out if this has increased the play between the rod and crank too much. If this was a car I would send the rods out to be reconditioned. Maybe carefully taking a few thou off the matting surface of the cap and or rod would be enough. Note the chamfer where the rod and cap join.
The rods and caps have a bump on one side to indicate orientation. Neat. The parts manual show 3 part numbers for the rods. Other then the tube pressed into the center cap and the oil slinger that bolts to the back cap they look identical. Still need to compare some more. But I know which rod was in back because of the scoring.
I am pulling the rings from the pistons and removing to grease like buildup in the lands and on the rings. Not sure if it matters with these rings but I am taking care to preserve location and orientation. The compression rings have nice sharp edges which is good because I plan to reuse them.
It would be nice if I could get that last ring out of the center piston.
On the original compressor the top ring has a notched end and the 2nd ring does not. This makes cleaning them a bit easier because there is no problem telling them apart. They have a dimple on the top too.
The table was a mess by the end of the day. I need to clean off the low workbench and use that and keep the table just for the parts.
I started cleaning compressor parts this morning. Because the heater on the ultrasonic cleaner has died I am using an old hot plate to heat the water. Shortly after I got started the neighbor came over and asked me to dig a foundation for her room addition. The backhoe blew a hydraulic line with just 4 feet left. We finished off the AM with a trip to the carwash.
A picture to remind me where the oil slinger goes. The rod cap with a tube hanging out of it goes in the center.
The good news is that all the compressor parts have been clean enough to access their condition.
Feb 16th
This table should make it easier to keep track of the bits. All the parts except for the body and one piston are on the table..
I am continuing to clean parts. One of the rod journals must have been oil starved or had something get into it that lightly grooved it and the crank. With luck emery cloth or wet/dry sandpaper will clean it up. Rods can be had from grainger at about $90 each.
There is gunk behind the rings that is not coming out. I may have to remove the rings to do a proper job cleaning the lands.
The AENLD is now off the stand I need for sand blasting so I can get to that when ready.
Yesterday I cut 2 new pan baskets. My gasket stock is thin so I often use two layers.
Prior to installing the oil pump I primed it using the bottom half of a one gallon tea jug (like milk jug) to hold the oil. The pump was easy to reinstall.
To get the pan on I had to block up the bottom of the engine to get a bit more clearance. Keep in mind the dry weight for the engine is 110 1lbs. The manual say to torque the pan bolts at 7 to 10 ft lbs. I used 100 inch lbs.
Next the engine gets attached to the heavy steel plate you see in the lower right quadrant of the picture. I wanted to do it this evening but my back betrayed me. I dumped the bolts for the base into the green towel which then dumped them on the floor. I was not into crawling around and sorting them out.
Feb 16th
It is a good thing I did not get the base bolted on I forgot the oil screen! Only 12 little bolts to pull and replace
OK inspected and did some final cleaning of the screen with a tweezers. Pulled the sump and installed it then replaced the sump and bolted the engine to the heavy metal plate it came on.
6.5HP OHV Briggs moves to the running list. It still needs an exhaust gasket and a elbow installed in the carb but that can happen when the parts come.
Today I took another shot at lapping the intake valve. Last time I tried it was below freezing and nothing seemed to work including my hands and the suction cup so I gave it up as a bad deal. These are pictures borrowed from a previous post.
Try as I might I could not get a grinding noise. So I checked the valve clearance and there was none. My guess is this is a botched repair job with the heli-coil sticking up and what looks like a freshly ground valve seat and a valve that was never adjusted.
Part of me wants to replace the seat but then that would possibly mean a new seat and valve. I think the right thing to do is to grind off the valve stem and see what we end up with after a light lap.\
Feb 19th
The trouble I see with that is the valve will be too far now in the seat and the contact patch will be on the upper edge of the valve instead of in the middle. The question is do I need a new valve, valve seat or both.
I wanted to see how another valve would work so I grabbed the intake from Little Briggs #2 which what has a bad exhaust valve guide. But as you can see the 10 ci engine uses a larger valve. Duh!
Need price both and do some more thinking.
Ordered a new valve and seat off ebay for $10.50! Going rate is abou5t $25 each at the parts houses.
Not much is going to happen until after I get the AENLD off the stand I need for the sand blasting enclosure.
To have a complete set of parts I needed to remove the connecting rod from the piston rusted into its cylinder. It had been soaking in for about 10 days. I was ready to take it to the band saw and split the cylinder in two.
A box of compressor parts arrived today from Kam1973, Helping me with this was an act of kindness that I must acknowledge. We meet on "The Garage Journal" forum in this thread.
With these parts I should be able to restore the compressor without resorting to JB Weld to fill the pits in the cylinders.
My next step is to free the piston from my worst cylinder so I can reuse the rod. But now I don't have to worry about saving the cylinder or piston.
I have to say the newer Briggs and Stratton parts manuals cover so many engine configuration that they are confusing. You might find the part number you are looking for but they give little clue how the engine goes together. I suppose one needs a service book for that.
This engine had a carb clean and a bath at the car wash. The exhaust port is busted out but it looks like I can cut threads and put a 1" galvanized or black pipe in it.
Added the carb which leaked when I got it outside. I had to take it off again to change the bowl gasket because the new one was a bit small and would not seat in the bowl but did work if slipped over the carb body.
Earlier I had the shroud and the throttle/governor assembly at the car wash. I did a fair job on the inside of the shroud but not so much on the outside.
Not sure why this merits a picture but hey it did need oil.
Feb 12
The head took a bath. I also chased the threads in both exhaust port bolt holes. There is enough threads in the busted part to maybe work if I use a wire to tie the bolt down aircraft style. Or I may try sold alumaloy to fill in the missing area and redrill the hole. Need to see how much exhaust gets through the gap between the muffler insert and the block.
Cylinder bore looked good and head was clean.
Reassembling the head. From the engine users manual: Head bolts torque to 210 in/lbs. Intake at .005 in and exhaust at .010 in.
Feb 13
Lapped the valves and put it all back together.
Did some testing. The muffler seems like it will be OK. Got the governor closer to useable. May have a gas leak at the carb but will not know till I switch to the correct gas line.
Feb 14th
Mounted gas tank. Short a few screws for the trim. Added correct fuel line and it still leaks. Need to try changing elbow on carb. Soon this will be moved to the running list.
All this engine needs is a gasket for the muffler and maybe an elbow for the carb. I will tear of the carb and muffler when I get the gasket. But it is essentially done so it is moving to the running list.
This is an interesting engine in that it is my only OHV but it is also one of Brigg's weakest engines. I should have checked to see if it had a cast iron sleeve when I had the head off but i expect it does not. Maybe I will check when I have the carb and muffler off.
Anyway if all this engine is going to do is sit on the shelf there is no point in addressing the minor smoking problem. But I may try to solder a lead to the busted off low oil sensor.
Aug 1st 2019
Asking about a metal camshaft on facebook need a few pics.
The cap would not come off the gas tank. The filler neck turned with it. Neither ultrasonic cleaning or heating with a propane torch helped. So I cut the cap off with a dremel cut off wheel. Unfortunately I now have a slit in the filler neck but I am sure I can solder that to look like new. I do have a new cap in stock but I may use an old one to keep the look. May have to repaint and weather the tank.
The tank is now soaking with acetone and a few rocks to shake around. The tank weighed about twice what it should have when I started so it could take a while.
Depending on how one counts things I am getting near the 1/2 way point on the list of projects. But then it was the easy half, Note that I do not expect to fix all the engines as some will need parts or tools that are too expensive to obtain.
The 8HP Briggs moves from the In progress to the Running list. Still needs its gas tank coated and a few other things.
The Go-Putz moves from the Unstarted to the In progress list soon.
Moving the 2A016 from the In progress list to unstarted because I have not touched it.
The unidentified Wisconsin is S-8D. The big problem I know of is the missing carb.
Running 1st, 3rd, 4th Little briggs, Clinton PHD, Briggs 8HP
In progress Cooper Klipper, Winco Generator, AENLD, Briggs 6.5OHV, 3Z107B SpeedAir, Go-Putz Terminal 2nd little Briggs with a bad exhaust valve guide UnStarted
2A016 with a suspected broken rod,
10HP Briggs which may need just a carb clean,
Wisconsin S-8D without a carb or exhaust.
Go-Putz Ariens RM1332 with Briggs IC 13HP
Put the new carb fuel inlet elbow and new bowl gasket on. Used a sheet metal screw with a 1/4" head along with a small socket and a washer to extract the old one. Another trick learned on the net.
Found a regular socket that fits the torx heads on the carb. The wrench I used for double nutting has died.
But the engine does not turn over because the pump had some water left in it and is frozen. I hope it is not damaged.
It looks like the pump is OK other than a bad seal
New problem with the engine. It does not idle down. So far I have not seen any adjustment to fix it but a rubber band on the governor arm works nicely. Not that it is a permanent fix but it sort of indicates a missing or mal adjusted spring.
While I was working on the idle problem the little plastic bit on top the choke broke so now the choke will not work with the carb airbox in place. I was thinking of repairing it but it is part of the plastic choke shaft and the entire shaft may be brittle. Jacks Small Engines has it for $4.50. I just made a parts order and there is no hurry with this so it will just have to wait till the next order. The newer these engines are the more parts it takes to make them right.
I can't find the cover and air filter for the air box. I was thinking it was all wrapped up in the tarp with the engine.
I am moving this engine to running.
Monday Feb 10
Found the air filter and its cover on the bottom shelf of the stand the WinCo generator is on.
I did some cleaning on the heads and valve plates. All the valve screws came out execpt for the two in the center head.
Next I gave lapping the heads a try. Notice the bright areas. They were the high spots. They are mostly around the bolt and screw holes where the metal deformed form the tension.
The goal here is to sand enough away to flatten the area where the reed valve seals to the head. I need to put more pressure on the top side where there is more metal.
Either I was getting close or I am getting an uneven surface. Just a few strokes took took off most of the black on the left side
For now I am going to stop here. The area around the hole is discolored but smooth.
Luckily the area around the valve was in good shape. Here are the two with the old reed valves installed upside down.
I noticed a small bit of rocking between the head and valve plate. By resting both on the glass sheet it seems the valve plate needs to be flattened.
If you are looking for a more modern pulsa-jet linkage check out sblg43's video.
All the parts have arrived to restore the missing friction throttles to the 1st and 3rd little briggs. It is too cold to work in the engine shop so I installed one of the setups on the Cooper Klipper's vacu-jet out of curiosity,
The setup from part 2 is not finished but I need to clean a few carb parts for the Cooper Klipper Trim so a much smaller one is needed. A soup can was selected for the job. The cans have a coating inside that has to be removed. But as most people know cans have sharp edges. I dulled this one with sandpaper.
I scuffed the inside of the can with sandpaper then I set up the old spring as the sacrificial anode. This should remove the remainder of the coating. Given that I do not care about how the can looks I cranked up the amps to 1.
Seems I get more of the brown scum using tap water. It does not seem to interfere with the process.
After only 10 minutes the coating is starting to come loose. After about a hour I was tempted to use it but why not give it another hour or 2 and get most if not all of the coating.
Now this is getting fun. A few minutes after this image it hit 18.5V and is keeping the can warm.
This is good enough.
The springs go into the molasses because we don't want hydrogen embrittlement to cause problems.
Here I have added the choke lever arm from the carb and the current went up to .25A.
With the choke control rod off the carb the choke moves easily. So we need to make sure the linkage is not binding in any way.
This cart was originally an AV center at the local high school. It was buried in clutter over at the other shop so I liberated it to hold the WinCo.
The AV cart is much more suited to the WinCo. Tomorrow I will get a picture of the generator on its new cart.
Attached to the generator was this service tag. It was an even shade of brown but a light brushing revealed the name of service shop still in business in Amarillo Tx.
