287707 0225 01

Move the engine to the other shop for reassembly.

Pulled the bad fuel inlet elbow.  

Installed the muffler.  Need to find the muffler shroud.

Found the air cleaner from the 12.5HP L-head, originally from the Murray 12.5/40.  Looks like it may work.  Cleaning it up.  The breather tube may work too?  Should clean the carb on the 12.5 engine just to save it if possible.  The choke was stuck.  Another engine left outside in the rain.

The air cleaner base part number for this engine is 696129.   Just found out I don't have the number for the 12.5 engine...   will check the number for its air cleaner when I get it.

This is an ebay image of what should be the correct air cleaner.  There is hole for the screw holding the air cleaner to the top of carb.  The hole in the 13.5 air cleaner bottom does not line up with the 14.5 carb.   Maybe I can just drill the missing hole.  I am guessing the missing hole is the leftmost hole.




There are 2 missing holes.  Wonder what the one in the center is for?

 Downloaded gasket images for the block to manifold, and manifold to carb gaskets.  I need a new red rubber o-ring that goes between the car and air cleaner.

The pixel trace in MTC worked on both images.  I have not yet sized or test cut them.  The manifod to carb gasket serves as a heat shield for the float blow and must be cut from stiff stock.  Files are in "F:\Projects\Briggs\14p5 carb". There is also a block to manifold gasket for the Nikki carb because I did the wrong one first.

The heat shield worked well but the other did not so I took a picture of the intake flange and then drew the gasket using it as a guide.

Trial fitted the carb gasket. Could use a bit more tweaking but it is close enough.

Waxed and polished the shroud.  Working better than I expected.  It has a few dings and scratches but I love the way the red came to life.



Sunday, December 6, 2015

Bolted it down to the table.

Cleaned and installed the cylinder shroud.

The dipstick and tube were missing from this engine. Found one from a similar engine and borrowed the dipstick from the Murray 11/38.  While looking for the dipstick I found the missing shroud buried on the dirty table.  $26 I don't have to spend on ebay.

Tried to run the engine by filling the carb with gas using an oil squirt can.  That did not work.  Maybe the fuel shutoff is not stuck open like I was thinking.  Anyway that will not be a problem when the new bowl is installed without a solenoid.

Attempted to run it with gas and starter fluid.  It did not run long on a squirt.  But then the carb is not connected to anything.  I got about what I expected but am not willing to finish hooking up the carb prior to installing the fuel inlet elbow.
Shot a movie of that.

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

I don't know what I was thinking when I made the above video.  Not only was the carb unhooked from the governor but the bolts holding it to the intake manifold were only finger tight.  I guess I just felt like making a video...

Anyway today I installed the new bits on the carb and bolted it down.  But I got the linkage between the throttle and the governor on upside down.  Did not work well and eventually fell off.


This is how it should be





Found the 2nd exhaust gasket in the bag with the throttle linkages.

Fired up the engine on my new test stand for a few minutes.  The oil was still clean indicating I did a fairly good job of cleaning the dirty oil and real live dirt and sand that got into this engine sitting outside without a dipstick tube.






To clean the engine I flushed it with kerosene, then used oil.  Ran it for a few seconds on carb cleaner. Removed and cleaned the sump then filled it with new oil.

Grabbed the throttle control from the 31A607 0741 E1 engine.   This is the one from the LT1000(2) with a busted rod and a bent tappet guide on the engine casting.

Lost the governor spring from this engine... took the one from the 31A.  I expect I will find the spring with the magnetic sweeper later.


But the engine still would not work properly with the grovenor.  Noticed that the rod from the throttle to the governor arm was rubbing on top of the throttle arm.  After I bent it to provide clearance the throttle response was good.

While looking for a clean air filter from the go-putz engine I snatched the air cleaner too.  It's base is an exact match for this engine.  Need to clean it up and then the engine should be read to go into the Murray 14.5/42.

Still need an red rubber o-ring that goes between the carb and air cleaner.  Maybe there is one on the 31A607 0741 E1.     It is only slightly better than the one on this engine.  Using it but need to order at least 2 better 4.  

Wednesday, December 9, 2015


Plan is to assemble the rest of the engine and install in on the Murray 14.5/12.5 Hybrid tractor.  Mostly air filter and exhaust shroud.  Need to see if I can find a starter shield.  But it could make do without till I trip over one.

Did the above.   Only have 2 bolts on holding the engine in place and they are not tight.   Need to hookup electrical and install the plate that holds the belts in place.

The nasty started used for testing was replaced with a cleaned on with a new gear.



This should be a wrap up on this motor except maybe a follow up on any trouble that may develop.  It sounds good and I hope that does not happen.

It would be nice if the tractor buffed out as well as the engine shroud did!  Post about the tractor will be titled Murray 14.5/12.5 Hybrid.

287707 0225 01 Carb

I was expecting to open this carb up and toss in into the dead carb box.  But it may be salvageable.  It is a walbro.  Less gaskets to buy!


 The float pin came out easy enough but the needle valve is stuck and I can not get the float off without breaking it.  One round it the ultrasonic did not free it.  I would have expected it to if it were only head in by gum.  If it is expanded rust it maybe hopeless.  There is a walbro from the 31's.  If it is in good shape I may just move the jet from this carb to it.  That is providing the get will come out.  As you can see in the image I need to go outside and get a screwdriver with a larger blade that has been modified for jets.  Hope I have one. The bolts holding the carb on to the intake tale an 8mm wrench.

After some more time in the ultrasonic I managed to get the float off the needle and then used a screwdriver to pry the needle up.  The gunk holding the needle in was not rust.











It maybe useable but iffy for long term use.

Hit the bowl with carb cleaner and the ultrasonic.  It too has corrosion.  If the carb works I will replace it and maybe the needle.

The main jet / emulsion tube cleaned up nicely.

Although the exterior of the idle adjusting needle is ugly the actual tip is nice.

The bottom of the carb and the needle valve seat.

Time to put it back together.  The fuel shutoff is still very stiff.  For now push it down.  

Like the dents in the float bowl.

OK to test this I need a new fuel inlet elbow.  Gave my sparer to Jess.  Wonder if one can connect a hose to what is there.  No sense wasting the elbow if it is junk.

The bowl could use a new gasket.  It is an o-ring.  Need to check stock on that.

Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Ordered parts from tewarehouse.  They were cheaper than even amazon prime add-on with $4 shipping and OK tax.  Would be a bummer it the carb did not work.

3 starter gears

oil seal for dipstick tube

carb bowl with gasket and bolt to replace solenoid  

needle 

breather tube

287707 0225 01

287707 0225 01   9510274A
Edited the contrast and brightness to make it more readable.

I have been sitting on this engine since September 3rd of this year.  It seem longer than that because I have aquired 3 tractors since then.  Today I took the time to pull the head and check out the cylinder bore.  No exact measurement but it seems to be within 2 or 3 thou which is surprising.   The oil looked nasty and I was thinking it was full of dirt because this tractor came without an air cleaner. It did have a new sparkplug and maybe a new head gasket.

Some images of the disassembly.  Although this engine looks good so far it could really go either way.  There is some corrosion or carbon on the top side of the cylinder bore.  No idea what that is about.

After taking off the head I cleaned up the cylinder as best I could.  It is pitted but maybe not enough to matter.

I put the head back on but have not torqued it.  Need to figure out which pushrod goes where.

Monday, November 16, 2015

Torque procedure is the same as for the 28ci.

Friday, November 20, 2015

Installed and torqued the head.  Set the valves after pulling the head back off to make a timing mark on the flywheel. Installed the starter from the LT1000(2).  Did a compression test and got 75psi.   I have gotten higher on other engines of this type but I think that on this one I have the intake valve set to where the compression release works.  

Next I am going to flush it with kerosene not sure how many times that will take.  I don't feel comfortable starting it on the dirty bench.  May have to bolt it to a tractor for testing;

Should make a vertical engine test stand.

Saturday, November 21

Drained the oil and refilled it with kerosene.  Added a bit of acetone to the kerosene.  Turned it by hand because I did not want to ignite the mix.

After a few turns it started making noise.  Not sure if it was every revolution or every other.  If it is every I may open it up.  See what it does with oil.

The plan is to change the oil on the DYT4000.  It's engine has maybe an hour on it since it was reassembled.  But the oil is dark because I pulled the new oil filter and replaced it with the one off the old engine because I feared that vaseline in the pump whent into the filter and stayed.  Anyway this oil should be good enough to fire this engine.

Sunday, November 22

Drained the kerosene.  Not sure how much good it did.  Refilled the crankcase with used oil fresh from the DYT4000 .

Hooked a battery to the starter and shot a bit of carb cleaner into the intake port, neither the carb or muffler are installed.  It fired up.   This is always a tricky thing to do on an uninstalled motor.  It tried to spin but the most exciting bit was the flame shooting out the intake.  The compression release at work?  Really need to make that motor test stand with a few 10s of pounds of concrete to anchor it.

Anyway I think the interior of this motor is far to dirty to put back into service.  I will at least open the sump and then expect and clean it. Next task.

This could end up being a useable engine with lots of life left in it.  Given that it was out in the weather with no air cleaner I expect the carb is toast.

Drained the oil and pulled the sump cover.  The last person in here did not use a gasket.  Just an uneffective bead of sealer.  This may explain why the exterior of the engine is so filty.

Looks like crud is confined to the bottom of the sump.  So unless something else rears its ugly head I will do a cleanup and put it back together.

Left it to drain overnight.  I should go back and put a garbage bag over it.














Friday, November 27, 2015

Designed and cut the pan gasket.  Forgot how to use the software tools so it took a while.  Started with a picture of the pan.   For the roll paper 1 cut is enough.  For the gasket material 4 cuts.  Wonder if this gasket will fit the 31's?

It is too cold to install the gasket in the unheated shop.  Bring the engine in?  Not my idea of fun.  But only the forecast says cold for the next week.  Not much choice if I want to do this.





Saturday, November 28, 2015

Reassembled the engine early this AM.  Came up one bolt short for the pan, 9 instead of 10.  Then one of the bolts stripped because there was not enough thread engaged.  That sounds related.  Anyway I can shorten a head bolt slightly and use it in the stripped hole.

Next up will be the carb.