Put the new carb fuel inlet elbow and new bowl gasket on. Used a sheet metal screw with a 1/4" head along with a small socket and a washer to extract the old one. Another trick learned on the net.
Found a regular socket that fits the torx heads on the carb. The wrench I used for double nutting has died.
But the engine does not turn over because the pump had some water left in it and is frozen. I hope it is not damaged.
It looks like the pump is OK other than a bad seal
New problem with the engine. It does not idle down. So far I have not seen any adjustment to fix it but a rubber band on the governor arm works nicely. Not that it is a permanent fix but it sort of indicates a missing or mal adjusted spring.
While I was working on the idle problem the little plastic bit on top the choke broke so now the choke will not work with the carb airbox in place. I was thinking of repairing it but it is part of the plastic choke shaft and the entire shaft may be brittle. Jacks Small Engines has it for $4.50. I just made a parts order and there is no hurry with this so it will just have to wait till the next order. The newer these engines are the more parts it takes to make them right.
I can't find the cover and air filter for the air box. I was thinking it was all wrapped up in the tarp with the engine.
I am moving this engine to running.
Monday Feb 10
Found the air filter and its cover on the bottom shelf of the stand the WinCo generator is on.
I posted on SmokeStack and the best suggestion to cool a pump while testing the engine was to keep a hose running in the pump.
A city worker said this was a good engine but the pump would not make suction. I am not sure that he wasn't confusing it with the OHV engine. He figured the pump impeller was worn. It could also be a seal but I am wondering if one could fix a worn impeller by filing or milling the case down and maybe lapping the impeller to the case. Or just shimming the impeller forward.
The main jet on this carb is stripped. The jet was clogged and did not open with ultrasonic cleaning. I poked it open with a wire but that does not open the side passages.
Unfortunately the heater on the ultrasonic cleaner has died. It does have a year warrenty.
Plan to clean the carb.
soak jet with carb cleaner
clean in the ultrasonic using water heated to 140F + dawn + ammonia
Blow out with compressed air
repeat
I wonder if carb cleaner is less effective at 8F. Maybe better wait on this till it warms up this afternoon. Ah where there is a will there is a way.
So the idea is to spray the carb outside and then seal it in the plastic box and bring it inside where it is warm. In theory the house will not end up smelling like carb cleaner.
I placed an old mower tank above the engine and it started with a bit of priming.
The carb seems to be clean I will know better when I get the fuel pump hooked up. The problem is The plastic elbow. The part runs $5 to $10. To get the old one out you rip the plastic out and then
I wish I had thought to put some cleaner in the fuel.
To do the testing I poured a 5 gallon bucket of water into the pump. I also pulled a 3 inch chunk of concrete out the bottom of the pump. Has me wondering if it chewed up the impeller. I guess that is a good reason to take the pump off. But I am some what worried about ruining the seal when I do. Need to get the pump number and find a diagram.
Tomorrow I will pick up some new gas line if there is any in town. Then I can hook in the fule pump which seems to be working. I pumped the crappy gas out of the old line anyway. Maybe pump some clean fuel through prior to hooking it in to the carb. Need a 2nd gas tank for that and the one that goes with this engine needs to be red-kote'd. I do not want to do that till I am sure it is really working.
Yeah still do not trust the carb.
Saturday January 25th
I changed the fuel lines and it ran for a short while a stopped. The fuel pump was not working!
To be sure I would not loose anything the pump was opened on the workbench rather then the picnic table.
The diaphragm, gasket and pump spring were good but the 2 tiny little springs were missing. This image and the one above were take immediately after splitting the pump so I know I did not loose them. They are tiny fiddly bits and I can understand how they can get overlooked or lost in a field repair.
This diagram came in handy when hooking it back up. The missing springs are #4.
With the repaired fuel pump back in place it started and ran. But the fuel inlet on the carb still leaked like crazy. I should order a new bowl gasket too.
When the fuel inlet arrives I need to pull the carb to install it. Then I can put the engine plastic and sheet metal back in place. That should wrap it up for the engine.
Today I choose this zombie engine as my next victim. I verified that it had spark, took off the air cleaner and gave it a whiff of starting fluid. It spoke to me :)
Next the carb and the fuel tank need to be cleaned. But first I plan to remove the head an check the cylinder for wear or damage. Not use fixing the fuel system if the engine is hosed.
I think it would be a good idea to remove the pump prior to starting. It is self priming and I do not want to run it dry.
Jan 11th
Removed the gas tank. Need to look at the manual to see how the carb comes off. OK found and downloaded the manual. This is what it shows.
This is not exactly what I was looking for. But the thing that had me wondering was the bolt 53, From what I seen today the torx looking end is sticking out. The flange near it holds the carb onto the intake. I made a half hearted effort to turn it off with double nuts. Maybe I need to get a trox bolt and use it as a driver.
In retrpospect: These long bolts like 53 hole the carb and the header to the block.
I don't have any gas tank sealer yet so I am going to hold off on the rocks and electrical cleaning. Maybe with luck acetone will be enough with this one.
For some time I has wonder about testing pump engine with the pump attached. I may try filling the pump with water. Maybe it will keep enough to cool the seals.
Jan 12
The carb linkage but to be safe I will take pictures. Carb looked familiar it is a Walbro carb like the one on the clinton 2 stroke post hole digger.
In theory one is supposed to uses a E-5 Torx socket to remove the studs that hold the carb. I found a stamped wrench in my tool drawer and used it to double nut the studs and remove them.
The linkage is rather simple. I should have gotten a closer look at that spring but I think it shares the gromet with the linkage on the carb end.
The carb cleaned up well but the main jet was still plugged and stripped. I got it to where you could blow through it but I am concerned about the holes in the side of it. I am going to start adding a bit of carb cleaner each day and it it with compressed air. This carb is not a great loss as I would like to replace it with an adjustable one.
New problem with the engine. It does not idle down. So far I have not seen any adjustment to fix it but a rubber band on the governor arm works nicely. Not that it is a permanent fix but it sort of indicates a missing or mal adjusted spring.
While I was working on the idle problem the little plastic bit on top the choke broke so now the choke will not work with the carb airbox in place. I was thinking of repairing it but it is part of the plastic choke shaft and the entire shaft may be brittle. Jacks Small Engines has it for $4.50. I just made a parts order and there is no hurry with this so it will just have to wait till the next order. The newer these engines are the more parts it takes to make them right.
