Murray 12.5/40 Will not Start

The day after I fixed the steering I started 'dave' and it just putter and died.   Check for fuel.  Checked for spark and it was there.   Eventually tested the coil with an ohm meter and got an open on both coils.

That made me suspicious so I tried a 2nd meter with the same results.  Tested a the coil on the LT1000 and got about 5K which is good.

So I ordered a new coil which should arrive tomorrow.

The tractor came with 3 silver and one white wheel.  The 4th silver was there but had a crunch tired.   Yesterday I managed to install a tube and today I mounted it on the tractor after using a bit of anti-seize on the axle.

I also managed to get the beat up plug out of the carb.  The jet under it did not come out.   Took the top off and blew it out again.  One of these days need to take it off and ultrasonic clean it to see if I can get it to stop surging.

Wednesday:

New magnatron ignition came today  But it too read infinity.  Called oregon and they will 'call me back'.

Bought new spark plugs.  No help.

Pulled the old one and removed the kill wire just in case it was shorted some place.  Tried to start it and the starter gear stripped.   Started to remove the starter and found you have to pull the flywheel.  Flywheel nut is larger than 1 1/8 need to check south shop for sockets.  Thinking it maybe better to put a 12.5 back together.  Not sure.

If I can get the flywheel off I need to check to see if I have a gear that matches that can be used.  Punch time!

I guess this is my punishment for liking this tractor.

DYT4000. head for new engine.

For the most part the engine just needs a head.  The casting was on the rough side so I did a bit of polishing on the combustion chamber.   Not perfect but maybe the carbon will not stick as easily.  Next I need to lap in a set of valves.

Murray 12.5/40 Steering

A few days ago I bent a mower blade and while I had it in the shop I worked on the steering.  The wheel bushings and axles are worn but I wanted to see what I could do without new parts.

I started by greasing the steering sector and plate.

Started on the left side. A cotter pin removed the wheel and another for the tie rod,  I added a washer on the bottom side of the axle, the part which could be called a king pin.  The idea here is to reduce friction.  Added a bit of grease.

The tie rod end had a single washer on the bottom.  I added one to the top to reduce play and possibly friction.  Grease here too.











A washer was added to the inside of of each wheel to reduce friction and play.  Again grease.  Sorry no pic.

The axle/kingpin on the left side would not easily come off so I left it as is.  But I did add two washers to the tie rod as it had none.










The good news is that the steering requires a lot less effort and is somewhat tighter.  The play is in the sector so maybe that can be adjusted.

I was tempted to toss the bent blade but this is the only set I have that fits a 40" murray deck.  A few minutes in the press put it back to useable and both got a new edge.

Funny in that this tractor has about the worst deck I own in that it does not have a single anti scallop wheel.  Yet it does the bulk of my mowing.  When I get a mower with a better deck going I may remove the deck and keep it for a yard tug.