See a YouTube vid on Knapp joints a few days later I found them on an old dresser I was about to toss. Turns out they were only used from 1870 to 1900.
Maybe its a keeper
Where small engines rise from the grave
Follow me on my journey as I attempt to return
abandoned lawn tractors, engines and implements
to working condition.
Wednesday, October 23, 2019
First step in dust collection.
I have had this jet 1.5HP dust collector for 15 or so years. When I moved from the big shop to the 2 car garage there was not enough floor space. I have gotten to the point where I really miss it.
I have started mounting it in the rafters next to the gable end away from the house. Initially I will be blowing the dust and chips to the open air. If that don't work and I don't think it will I can add the bags or a cyclone on the outside wall.
At this point the blower has been hoisted to the rafters using a come-a-long and a snatch block bolted into the roof sheeting. Had just enough clearance to make it work. Had I bolted it to the rafters I would have come up short.
The blower is resting on 2 2x6's. Need to screw them down then bolt the blower to them. Cut a hole in the outside wall and hook up the 2 4" flex hoses on the inside. Thinking both will go to the table saw. One to clear the chips from the saw's body and the other suspended above the blade. That will be nice especially when resawing the old redwood fence boards to remove the paint and top layer of weathered wood.
Start of a hole to the outside. A few false starts on where to put it but the extra drill holes ended up in the disk I cut out.
The fly cutter had stripped positioning bolts. Touched up the M5 bolts and used M5 bolts with external nuts to jam aka jam nuts.
Exhaust hose recycled from the portable setup.
The switch is not a magnetic contractor. It stays on even if power to it is lost.
Screwed down the 2x6 supports and bolted the blower unit to them.
The six inch to twin 4 inch connector never fit well. I have strapped it in place with a bungy cord.
Connection to bottom of the table saw. Yes the hose is connected to a up cycled tin can.
A mess but it illustrates that one leg of the connector will pull dust from the blade and the one on the back right of the table connect to the dust collection port under the table.
I have started mounting it in the rafters next to the gable end away from the house. Initially I will be blowing the dust and chips to the open air. If that don't work and I don't think it will I can add the bags or a cyclone on the outside wall.
At this point the blower has been hoisted to the rafters using a come-a-long and a snatch block bolted into the roof sheeting. Had just enough clearance to make it work. Had I bolted it to the rafters I would have come up short.
The blower is resting on 2 2x6's. Need to screw them down then bolt the blower to them. Cut a hole in the outside wall and hook up the 2 4" flex hoses on the inside. Thinking both will go to the table saw. One to clear the chips from the saw's body and the other suspended above the blade. That will be nice especially when resawing the old redwood fence boards to remove the paint and top layer of weathered wood.
Start of a hole to the outside. A few false starts on where to put it but the extra drill holes ended up in the disk I cut out.
The fly cutter had stripped positioning bolts. Touched up the M5 bolts and used M5 bolts with external nuts to jam aka jam nuts.
Next Day
Exhaust hose recycled from the portable setup.
The switch is not a magnetic contractor. It stays on even if power to it is lost.
Screwed down the 2x6 supports and bolted the blower unit to them.
The six inch to twin 4 inch connector never fit well. I have strapped it in place with a bungy cord.
Connection to bottom of the table saw. Yes the hose is connected to a up cycled tin can.
A mess but it illustrates that one leg of the connector will pull dust from the blade and the one on the back right of the table connect to the dust collection port under the table.
Sunday, October 20, 2019
Kitchen Cabinets Restoration
The south house needs a lot of works. Without a lot of money to toss at it there are still some things I can do. First on this list is the kitchen cabinets. They have enough paint on them that they do not operate correctly.
Prior to starting.
Current state. Storing stripped doors on countertops to keep them flat.
I have removed the paint from the front and back of 13, about half of the doors. The uppers came clean to the wood. The lowers are retaining some paint in the grain. The 2nd door from the rear is a lower.
The doors are the easy part. The drawers then the rest of the cabinets will be harder.
I am setting up the living room to use for painting. Current plan is to spray with Alkyd Enamel. Maybe with a hardener.
Mostly missing a heater atm. When I get to spraying paint with a gun I need to bring the compressor over and setup a fresh air supply hood or resperiator.
Update:
pulled the rest of the doors and all the drawers on the kitchen units. Still need to pull the dozen or so doors on the pantry.
Prior to starting.
Current state. Storing stripped doors on countertops to keep them flat.
I have removed the paint from the front and back of 13, about half of the doors. The uppers came clean to the wood. The lowers are retaining some paint in the grain. The 2nd door from the rear is a lower.
The doors are the easy part. The drawers then the rest of the cabinets will be harder.
I am setting up the living room to use for painting. Current plan is to spray with Alkyd Enamel. Maybe with a hardener.
Mostly missing a heater atm. When I get to spraying paint with a gun I need to bring the compressor over and setup a fresh air supply hood or resperiator.
Update:
pulled the rest of the doors and all the drawers on the kitchen units. Still need to pull the dozen or so doors on the pantry.
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