Status Update

Depending on how one counts things I am getting near the 1/2 way point on the list of projects. But then it was the easy half,  Note that I do not expect to fix all the engines as some will need parts or tools that are too expensive to obtain.

The 8HP Briggs moves from the In progress to the Running list.  Still needs its gas tank coated and a few other things.

The Go-Putz moves from the Unstarted to the In progress list soon.

Moving the 2A016 from the In progress list to unstarted because I have not touched it.

The unidentified Wisconsin is S-8D.  The big problem I know of is the missing carb.


Running   1st, 3rd, 4th Little briggs, Clinton PHD, Briggs 8HP

In progress  Cooper Klipper, Winco Generator, AENLD,  Briggs 6.5OHV,  3Z107B SpeedAir, Go-Putz

Terminal 2nd little Briggs with a bad exhaust valve guide

UnStarted 
2A016 with a suspected broken rod,
10HP Briggs which may need just a carb clean,
Wisconsin S-8D without a carb or exhaust.
Go-Putz Ariens RM1332 with Briggs IC 13HP

8 HP Briggs Trash Pump (part 3)

Put the new carb fuel inlet elbow and new bowl gasket on.  Used a sheet metal screw with a 1/4" head along with a small socket and a washer to extract the old one.  Another trick learned on the net.

Found a regular socket that fits the torx heads on the carb.  The wrench I used for double nutting has died.

But the engine does not turn over because the pump had some water left in it and is frozen.   I hope it is not damaged.

It looks like the pump is OK other than a bad seal

New problem with the engine.  It does not idle down.  So far I have not seen any adjustment to fix it but a rubber band on the governor arm works nicely.  Not that it is a permanent fix but it sort of indicates a missing or mal adjusted spring.






While I was working on the idle problem the little plastic bit on top the choke broke so now the choke will not work with the carb airbox in place. I was thinking of repairing it but it is part of the plastic choke shaft and the entire shaft may be brittle.  Jacks Small Engines has it for $4.50.  I just made a parts order and there is no hurry with this so it will just have to wait till the next order.  The newer these engines are the more parts it takes to make them right.

I can't find the cover and air filter for the air box.  I was thinking it was all wrapped up in the tarp with the engine.

I am moving this engine to running.

Monday Feb 10
Found the air filter and its cover on the bottom shelf of the stand the WinCo generator is on.

3Z107B 3 Cylinder SpeedAire Compressor (part 4)

I did some cleaning on the heads and valve plates.  All the valve screws came out execpt for the two in the center head.

Next I gave lapping the heads a try.  Notice the bright areas.  They were the high spots.  They are mostly around the bolt and screw holes where the metal deformed form the tension.   

The goal here is to sand enough away to flatten the area where the reed valve seals to the head.  I need to put more pressure on the top side where there is more metal.

Either I was getting close or I am getting an uneven surface.  Just a few strokes took took off most of the black on the left side

For now I am going to stop here.   The area around the hole is discolored but smooth.

Luckily the area around the valve was in good shape.  Here are the two with the old reed valves installed upside down.

I noticed a small bit of rocking between the head and valve plate.  By resting both on the glass sheet it seems the valve plate needs to be flattened.

1st Little Briggs 1st run video and Pulsa-Jet friction throttle parts

If you are looking for a more modern pulsa-jet linkage check out  sblg43's video.

All the parts have arrived to restore the missing friction throttles to the 1st and 3rd little briggs.  It is too cold to work in the engine shop so I installed one of the setups on the Cooper Klipper's vacu-jet out of curiosity,

Rust Removal Using Electrolysis (part 3)

The setup from part 2 is not finished but I need to clean a few carb parts for the Cooper Klipper Trim so a much smaller one is needed.   A  soup can was selected for the job.  The cans have a coating inside that has to be removed. But as most people know cans have sharp edges.  I dulled this one with sandpaper.

I scuffed the inside of the can with sandpaper then I set up the old spring as the sacrificial anode.  This should remove the remainder of the coating.  Given that  I do not care about how the can looks I cranked up the amps to 1.

Seems I get more of the brown scum using tap water.  It does not seem to interfere with the process.

After only 10 minutes the coating is starting to come loose. After about a hour I was tempted to use it but why not give it another hour or 2 and get most if not all of the coating.

Now this is getting fun.  A few minutes after this image it hit 18.5V and is keeping the can warm.

This is good enough.

The springs go into the molasses because we don't want hydrogen embrittlement to cause problems.

Here I have added the choke lever arm from the carb and the current went up to .25A.

With the choke control rod off the carb the choke moves easily.  So we need to make sure the linkage is not binding in any way.

1968 Cooper Klipper Trim (part 6) Recoil starter and carb

Found another turn of rope rusted into the starter pulley.  It did not come out easily nor did the knot you see just above my thumb.

The pulley along with the recently found spiral twisty bit from inside the carb got a bath.

The hard part of the recoil reload is done.  Just needs to bend down the tabs, trim the rope, and install the pull handle on the rope.

The interior needs to be coated with rusty metal primer.  Rather then bend the tabs twice I will wait to do final assembly till after it is painted..

I reinstalled the spiral in the carb.  Just jammed it in so that it matched the position of the one on the pulsa-jet on the left..   But there is still a problem with the carb.

The needle valve spring is being held back by a brass washer rusted to the needle.
They came loose by holding the washers in a line man's pliers and cranking hard on the screw head.  That needle looks ugly!  It surprised me when the spring bounced back after being released.

1968 Cooper Klipper Trim (part 4) valves

The muffler is stuck good but I got both valves out today with it in place.   The guides are a bit loose but hopefully serviceable for an engine that will not be used for other than demonstration.  Of all the engines this is the first to need a new gasket for the breather cover.  This engine has a vent from the breather to the air.  On a car that would have been called a road draft tube.    I wonder why the spring on the right is bunched up at the bottom.  Have the bottom coils failed ?

Yesterday I cleaned up a spring from another engine and was going to install it in the clipper.  The rope that was in the Klipper's starter was way too thick and so was the somewhat smaller rope I have on hand.  The original rope must have swelled as I do not see how it could have been installed.

Today I tried to get the lid off the gas tank.  It seems the filler neck is turning instead of the cap.  I will try cooking it at a low temperature so as not to remove the paint.  But not today.

Febuary 3

Thinking about ways to get that cap off.  Maybe start with the rocks and acetone and turn it to get acetone into the cap while it rests.