A DIY solution for non highway use
1 TSP course ground pepper
2 TSP fine ground pepper
18 oz ethylene glycol antifreeze
It is best to break the tire bead and dump it in. If you do opt to put it in via the valve stem use a small drill bit to open the clogged stem.
Since I have discovered this I spend a lot less time on flat tires. So far I have only used it on tubeless tires. Kind of hard to get it into a tube.
Should make a video of this.
Monday, July 27, 2015
Monday, July 13, 2015
Gilson Super 8
I started parking the Gilson and the LT1000 under the car port to make space in the shop.Last week the Gilson did not stop when I pushed in the clutch while parking. The rear end of the LT1000 is slightly dented and the Gilson lost a head light and may have some subtle front end damage.
The clutch rod had fallen off in the back because the hole it pivoted in was severely worn. We welded a washer into the hole and welded up the worn spot on the rod.The rod is supposed to rid in a rubber grommet but for now at least it will have to do without.
The left end of the red rod.
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Goes into this hole.
The large hole above the indicated hole goes over the shaft the the friction disk rotates on. This shaft is too far ahead and rubs on the front side of the hole. This has me thinking the friction disk maybe too worn unless there is an adjustment.
Anyway not that the slop is gone from the clutch I can try doing the 3 step adjustment in the service bulletin.
Earlier I greased the 3 rails/bars that the friction wheel rides on. After that it kept sliding up to high gear which I fixed by adjusting a screw on the shift lever mechanism.
Murray 12.5/40 Will not Start II - coil woes
Took the starter off and found it was sluggish. Tore it down and cleaned the brush plate in the ultra sonic. Cleaned the commutator and put it back together with some grease and the new gear.
Returned the amazon scratch and dent Oregon coil and ordered 2nd one. It worked great for about 10 minutes of mowing. Had to tow the tractor back to the shop with smiley. I was originally thinking the coil had died but in fact I did a poor job of installing it and a coil wire rubbed on the flywheel which cut it.
Ordered a 3rd coil which is a generic brand unit for $15 which is about $10 less than the Oregon units. It has one or 2 less core laminations (plates) but seems to work fine. Will know more when I use it a while but I expect it is AOK.
The new coil install went well. Buttoned it up and took it for a spin and the throttle cable broke off at the lever. I think I can shorten it and make a new Z bend. Pulled the wire out and it is clean with no rust. Going to shoot some graphite into the sheath then insert the wire.
Throttle repair finished with good results. Resistance of secondary on latest coil is over 5K which is the highest of the ones I have tested so far.
Returned the amazon scratch and dent Oregon coil and ordered 2nd one. It worked great for about 10 minutes of mowing. Had to tow the tractor back to the shop with smiley. I was originally thinking the coil had died but in fact I did a poor job of installing it and a coil wire rubbed on the flywheel which cut it.
Ordered a 3rd coil which is a generic brand unit for $15 which is about $10 less than the Oregon units. It has one or 2 less core laminations (plates) but seems to work fine. Will know more when I use it a while but I expect it is AOK.
The new coil install went well. Buttoned it up and took it for a spin and the throttle cable broke off at the lever. I think I can shorten it and make a new Z bend. Pulled the wire out and it is clean with no rust. Going to shoot some graphite into the sheath then insert the wire.
Throttle repair finished with good results. Resistance of secondary on latest coil is over 5K which is the highest of the ones I have tested so far.
Tuesday, June 9, 2015
Murray 12.5/40 Will not Start
The day after I fixed the steering I started 'dave' and it just putter and died. Check for fuel. Checked for spark and it was there. Eventually tested the coil with an ohm meter and got an open on both coils.
That made me suspicious so I tried a 2nd meter with the same results. Tested a the coil on the LT1000 and got about 5K which is good.
So I ordered a new coil which should arrive tomorrow.
The tractor came with 3 silver and one white wheel. The 4th silver was there but had a crunch tired. Yesterday I managed to install a tube and today I mounted it on the tractor after using a bit of anti-seize on the axle.
I also managed to get the beat up plug out of the carb. The jet under it did not come out. Took the top off and blew it out again. One of these days need to take it off and ultrasonic clean it to see if I can get it to stop surging.
Wednesday:
New magnatron ignition came today But it too read infinity. Called oregon and they will 'call me back'.
Bought new spark plugs. No help.
Pulled the old one and removed the kill wire just in case it was shorted some place. Tried to start it and the starter gear stripped. Started to remove the starter and found you have to pull the flywheel. Flywheel nut is larger than 1 1/8 need to check south shop for sockets. Thinking it maybe better to put a 12.5 back together. Not sure.
If I can get the flywheel off I need to check to see if I have a gear that matches that can be used. Punch time!
I guess this is my punishment for liking this tractor.
That made me suspicious so I tried a 2nd meter with the same results. Tested a the coil on the LT1000 and got about 5K which is good.
So I ordered a new coil which should arrive tomorrow.
The tractor came with 3 silver and one white wheel. The 4th silver was there but had a crunch tired. Yesterday I managed to install a tube and today I mounted it on the tractor after using a bit of anti-seize on the axle.
I also managed to get the beat up plug out of the carb. The jet under it did not come out. Took the top off and blew it out again. One of these days need to take it off and ultrasonic clean it to see if I can get it to stop surging.
Wednesday:
New magnatron ignition came today But it too read infinity. Called oregon and they will 'call me back'.
Bought new spark plugs. No help.
Pulled the old one and removed the kill wire just in case it was shorted some place. Tried to start it and the starter gear stripped. Started to remove the starter and found you have to pull the flywheel. Flywheel nut is larger than 1 1/8 need to check south shop for sockets. Thinking it maybe better to put a 12.5 back together. Not sure.
If I can get the flywheel off I need to check to see if I have a gear that matches that can be used. Punch time!
I guess this is my punishment for liking this tractor.
Saturday, June 6, 2015
DYT4000. head for new engine.
For the most part the engine just needs a head. The casting was on the rough side so I did a bit of polishing on the combustion chamber. Not perfect but maybe the carbon will not stick as easily. Next I need to lap in a set of valves.
Murray 12.5/40 Steering
A few days ago I bent a mower blade and while I had it in the shop I worked on the steering. The wheel bushings and axles are worn but I wanted to see what I could do without new parts.
I started by greasing the steering sector and plate.
Started on the left side. A cotter pin removed the wheel and another for the tie rod, I added a washer on the bottom side of the axle, the part which could be called a king pin. The idea here is to reduce friction. Added a bit of grease.
The tie rod end had a single washer on the bottom. I added one to the top to reduce play and possibly friction. Grease here too.
A washer was added to the inside of of each wheel to reduce friction and play. Again grease. Sorry no pic.
The axle/kingpin on the left side would not easily come off so I left it as is. But I did add two washers to the tie rod as it had none.
The good news is that the steering requires a lot less effort and is somewhat tighter. The play is in the sector so maybe that can be adjusted.
I was tempted to toss the bent blade but this is the only set I have that fits a 40" murray deck. A few minutes in the press put it back to useable and both got a new edge.
Funny in that this tractor has about the worst deck I own in that it does not have a single anti scallop wheel. Yet it does the bulk of my mowing. When I get a mower with a better deck going I may remove the deck and keep it for a yard tug.
I started by greasing the steering sector and plate.
A washer was added to the inside of of each wheel to reduce friction and play. Again grease. Sorry no pic.
The good news is that the steering requires a lot less effort and is somewhat tighter. The play is in the sector so maybe that can be adjusted.
I was tempted to toss the bent blade but this is the only set I have that fits a 40" murray deck. A few minutes in the press put it back to useable and both got a new edge.
Funny in that this tractor has about the worst deck I own in that it does not have a single anti scallop wheel. Yet it does the bulk of my mowing. When I get a mower with a better deck going I may remove the deck and keep it for a yard tug.
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