Saturday, March 3, 2018

Craftsman 925365 3 1/2 Angle Vice

Bought this craftsman vice from a neighbor today.  Seems to be well made   A bit aged but I does not look to have ever been used.

Thursday, March 1, 2018

Sidney Feet, first 4 jaw use, first taper cut.

Aluminum was cast into canned tomato cans to create billets.  This is fairly standard fair and needs no further explanation. 

The billets were turned round and a depression cut into the bottom.  

With the outside jaws interfered and I could not reach far enough to cut the tapered sides.  The 4 jaw chuck with the jaws in the inside configuration did.  the carriage was locked down.  The compound was used to move the bit along the work and the cross slide to move it in and out.

The taper was cut using a tool with additional top rake which resulted in a much smoother cut.  Still not great but best yet.   Need to try finishing with a rounded tool with top rake.  The taper was sanded with course, medium and fine emery cloth.  Then sanded with 320, 400, and 600 wet and dry.

I will have to mount the feet between centers if I want to cleanup and polish the lower section.  I  Then I will have to put it back in a chuck to drill the top to create the cavity for the bolts sticking through the lathe legs .

Saturday, February 24, 2018

New Tailstock Key

Somehow I've misplaced the original key for the tailstock quill.  Rather then wait for it to turn up or spend hours searching for it I made a new one.  It is similar to but quite different than the available tapered keys.

Started with a 0.2 inch strip of hot rolled steel.  Marked out the shape and cut it on the HF band saw in the vertical position.  The 2nd photo is the key after a bit of filing but not done.

To get the width just right the key was test fitted backwards in the tailstock keyway. Next it was tested in the final position.  The lip that holds it in the tailstock had to come down quite a bit. The last image is the key installed with the quill in place. The stick out is there to aid in removal.  Not sure if the original did but there is no harm in it.

The key is a tight friction fit in the tailstock and a sliding fit in the quill.   The quill was tight but the key is fairly soft and it soon loosened up.  Its a good fit with less play than the original key.  It may help with the quill locking if it forces the quill to the top of the bore. 

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Drip Oiler Gaskets

Although I previously cleaned and reassembled the drip oilers the gaskets leaked.  New ones were cut using cricut and make the cut.

The outside dimension is 1.55" and the inside 1.25.   1.54" may fit a bit better.  My gasket material is a little on the thin side so I used 2 or 3 gaskets in the bottoms.

Monday, February 12, 2018

Tailstock alignment and Dead Center

To align the tailstock we need to know the exact center of the headstock.   This is done by turning a  60 degree taper which can later be used as a dead center.  A pin with threads in the printers junk was used.

In these images you see a smooth center and a rougher one.   The smooth is in the tailstock, other in the headstock. 

The left image, with the dial showing, is taken from the top and illustrates the left/right alignment.  This is easily adjusted with two bolts on the tailstock.   Mr Pete shows a method using a dial indicator mounted in the chuck to check the center in the tailstock.  The plan is to use this to further refine this alignment.

The right image is taken from the side and illustrates the up/down misalignment.  Luckily the tailstock on the left is lower than the headstock and can be raised with shims between the two halves of the tailstock.  The 'interesting' part of this will be getting the tailstock quill in line with the spindle.  If its skewed it will make drilling difficult.

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Lathe Installation

I calling this lathe installation because the lathe is moving to its working location and hard wired to the buildings electrical system. 

The motor is on the tower and the tower is bolted to the wall with one bolt.  Need to see if I need the 2nd one and then figure out how to make that happen.

The plan is to use 1/2" thin wall  metal conduit down the wall and under the lathe then up to the drum switch.  Run the switched wires back up the same conduit and into the box then small armor cable to the motor.   That should be a 'fun' bit of conduit bending.   It has to clear the edge of the chip tray (in case I get it installed later) and drop to go under the lathe bed then a 90 up to the drum switch.

Need to add images here.

Thursday, January 25, 2018

First chips on Tuesday.  Faced the hub on an old aluminum pulley.   The bit was one I just picked up.  I'm sure it could use sharpening.

Created a casting pattern for leveling feet.  It will also raise the lathe to a better working height.  I'm not sure if it is smooth enough to pull from the mold.   The paint in the images is wet and it may look different when dry.