Sunday, April 15, 2018


Been cleaning and rearranging the shop. Moved this bench left to make room for the compressor but the outlet for the welder has to  move to the other side of the service entrance.  While I am doing that I will tie in the circuit for the lathe.


Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Lathe is now wired save for the 15A 2 pole breaker needed.  In the short run it is using a 30A.

Knocked the top bearing out of the cap on the rear of the lathe.   The way I cut the felts they are interfering with the two bearing halves.  Strange I did not catch this.  I know I checked.  I think I checked.  Oh well.

Saturday, April 7, 2018

The lost is found and other random bits.

A month or two ago I moved things between shops to make room for the lathe.   In the process I mistplaced my square aluminum casting crucible. a mold pattern,  a new set of silver and demming drill bits, and a numbered drill bit set.   A few days ago I found the crucible and today both drill bit sets.   The magic key was cleaning the shop.

I have been thinking about motors to power the versaMil attachment.  The one HP motor I purchased for the sand processor is too heavy as is a 3/4 HP I have on hand.    Current thinking is to use a DC thread mill motor which will also give speed control.

When I first assembled the lathe the cross shaft was OK.  It seems to have gotten worse.  I don't know if that's do to repositioning the lathe itself or something else.   Iphones have apps that record vibration.  Plans are to use it in an attempt to better balance the counter shaft but maybe I should get new belts first.

Thursday, April 5, 2018

Rambling about Greensand

Allow me to ramble.   There are several variables associated with greensand.   Six people can make greensand from the very same ingreediants and come up with six different sands.     It gets even more complex when the ingrediants vary.   The ratios you seen on the net are a starting point.  Take the time to ram up test flasks while varying the sand, Eventually you will discover what works.  Then ram up your pattern and light the furance.

If you have the time watch olfoundryman and sandrammer ram up a flask.  Both of these dudes are way better than me and maybe most of us.

Sandrammer uses shallow layers and takes care to scratch the surface of each layer prior to adding the next.  Oldfoundryman puts a lot less effort into it with fewer layers not scratching and less ramming in general.(edited)
Sandrammers's techinque makes for a stronger mold and will work with larger flasks.   Oldfoundryman's works for the relatively small flasks he uses.  But largely they cast about the same sized parts in their vidoes.

Sunday, March 25, 2018

I'm in the middle of fitting the spindle after a teardown to install the chip pan.

Need this image for a forum post.

Apparently I had the felts too tight.

In terms of the bearing caps wear there is about 100 thou left on the back and 60 thou under the front.

Figured I would try my hand a VBlog'ing.   Need to find a mic to use with the ipod.   For me voice over is maybe a first.  Learning iMovie.   This maybe fun.

Saturday, March 3, 2018

Craftsman 925365 3 1/2 Angle Vice

Bought this craftsman vice from a neighbor today.  Seems to be well made   A bit aged but I does not look to have ever been used.

Thursday, March 1, 2018

Sidney Feet, first 4 jaw use, first taper cut.

Aluminum was cast into canned tomato cans to create billets.  This is fairly standard fair and needs no further explanation. 

The billets were turned round and a depression cut into the bottom.  

With the outside jaws interfered and I could not reach far enough to cut the tapered sides.  The 4 jaw chuck with the jaws in the inside configuration did.  the carriage was locked down.  The compound was used to move the bit along the work and the cross slide to move it in and out.

The taper was cut using a tool with additional top rake which resulted in a much smoother cut.  Still not great but best yet.   Need to try finishing with a rounded tool with top rake.  The taper was sanded with course, medium and fine emery cloth.  Then sanded with 320, 400, and 600 wet and dry.

I will have to mount the feet between centers if I want to cleanup and polish the lower section.  I  Then I will have to put it back in a chuck to drill the top to create the cavity for the bolts sticking through the lathe legs .

Saturday, February 24, 2018

New Tailstock Key

Somehow I've misplaced the original key for the tailstock quill.  Rather then wait for it to turn up or spend hours searching for it I made a new one.  It is similar to but quite different than the available tapered keys.

Started with a 0.2 inch strip of hot rolled steel.  Marked out the shape and cut it on the HF band saw in the vertical position.  The 2nd photo is the key after a bit of filing but not done.

To get the width just right the key was test fitted backwards in the tailstock keyway. Next it was tested in the final position.  The lip that holds it in the tailstock had to come down quite a bit. The last image is the key installed with the quill in place. The stick out is there to aid in removal.  Not sure if the original did but there is no harm in it.

The key is a tight friction fit in the tailstock and a sliding fit in the quill.   The quill was tight but the key is fairly soft and it soon loosened up.  Its a good fit with less play than the original key.  It may help with the quill locking if it forces the quill to the top of the bore.