Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Sidney Lathe Apron Gears

I am back working on the Sidney Conehead Lathe.   When I first put it back in operation gears in the apron were too mangled to turn.  Either from a lathe crash or attempts to move the carriage with the gears packed with swarf.

Two videos on the subject.  If the first I make some progress with a file but no joy.

In the second I manage to get a bit more movement and finish off the process by running the gears with valve lapping compound.  AKA lapped the gears.  This one may still be uploading.

This afternoon.  I ran all the parts I had been working on through the parts washer and coated then machined surfaces with WD40.    For some reason they don't look clean in the picture.

There is still some fitting to do to make it right but its on the way.

Thanks to everyone who made suggestion.  Even ones that don't work out help in that they get the juices flowing.

Tuesday, October 2, 2018

Future foundry posts will be to No Man's Land Foundry.

A while back I setup the  No Man's Land Foundry blog.   In the future I will be posting foundry related ramblings there.

Monday, October 1, 2018

Hydrated Lime in Refractory Motar

From:  Traditional Oven

Refractory mortar mixing formulas

10 : 3 : 1.5 - Sand, Calcium Aluminate cement, Fireclay.
If you found hard locating refractory cement don't worry, here is one mixing formula with Portland cement plus lime available in ordinary building stores.
There are two Portland cement types, get the common gray in color, the other one is white decorative used for around pools etc. where a white effects are required.
Lime is calcium it takes over the cement in hot conditions (Portland will gradually burn out, it is used only for the mortar to set while working.)
10 : 6 : 2 : 3 – Sand, Fire Clay, Portland cement, and Lime.

First mix all dry ingredients well. Then in small amounts start adding clean water at room temperature while continuing mixing.
Mix into peanut butter consistency.

Mix it in wheelbarrow or straight in a bucket. After mortar looks mixed well, leave it for couple of minutes and then remix one more time. It will have slight thicker consistency after 2 mins., you may have to add a SPOON of water and mix to a peanut butter consistency. Prepare smaller quantity at the time, e.g. for one dome arch. Amount on the picture is nearly for all 3 aches, for making complete rectangular dome ceiling. ... Hoy, Rado that stuff looks quite mushy in there, oi it is mushy is it not? ... Oy ye, ye mate it is mushy, it always is mushy, ye.

Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Kerr 666 Part 2: Refractory Brick Repair with Satanite

The door is looking good.

I made a replacement brick with a plaster of paris and silica flour ratio of 1:1 with 3:1 water sodium silicate ratio.   The now expected clumping, curdling, showed up.   I worked through that and added perlite in some unknown quantity.  By then I had lost control and just wanted to finish it.    The brick looked good the next morning but a day later it had self destructed.  This block was only exposed to ambient temperatures.

This is exactly as I found it.   Obviously there has been some expansion and it needs to be avoided.  I am mixing up very small test batches to determine what the problem is or the boundary line is terms of ratios.

EDIT:  it may also be a case of either the silica flour or the perlite sucking water away from the plaster causing it to not set or fail after setting.

I took one of the broken bricks from the side of the oven and encased it in satanite.  The form is covered with packing tape.

To be continued...

Monday, September 24, 2018

Rebar Again

In a previous post I talked about what this rebar is and that it can be water hardened.

Wanted to know how well it worked on the lathe.    I also used a mix of tiki torch and mineral oil for the first time.  The answer is quite well.

I neglected to get a pic prior to hitting this with sand paper.  Will fix that some time.  Coarse sandpaper left larger scratches than the lathe tool.   Worked it down to 400.

The first project for this stuff may be a set of transfer punches

It would be good to grind the ribs and paint off with a flap disk but not on the metal lathe.     I have a Nova chuck for the wood lathe.    Think of it as a self centering 4 jaw chuck.   The only jaws it has are not suited to metal.  Maybe machine a set of metal lathe like jaws for it.  Have to look it over to see if that will work.

Sunday, September 23, 2018

Kerr 666 Part 1: Coil Repair - Fail

Today I attempted to splice the broken coil on the Kerr 666 but could not find my good crimping tool.   This will have to be redone.  Thinking of making a die to make sure the wires stay aligned.

Decanted the satanite into two 2 gallon zip lock bags with about 10 lbs each.   Thinking the second bag will keep longer if it is not opened until after the first is used up.   That is unless I do a big job and use it all up.  Who knows. PDF give a 1 year shelf life.

Started on the door tonight.   Both bricks are cracked, one is bad enough to fall out.  In use gravity would hold it in but I opted to repair it.   Buttered both edges and set them in place.  I neglected to wet the firebrick so I don't know how well this will work.

Next I applied water and wet paper towels to the door surface and let it rest about a half an hour rewetting the towels twice.

Where its possible I am going to soak the bricks in water from now on.
Mixed up a small quantity of somewhat stiff santanite and coated the face.  Ran a little short but it will get a second coat after it dries.  The brick face was a bit of a landscape.  Too much to level in one coat.