Craftsman YTS 3000

21HP briggs vtwin with the cylindrical air filter.   46" deck makes this the 2nd largest deck behind the BX's 60 inch.

The other DYT 3000 I have was made the same year. with the same engine (which I did not get) but with a 42" deck.   With luck I can make 1 good tractor and choose between the 42" and 46" deck.

This tractor fell off a trailer and messed up the steering, hood and a lot of the plastic.  It has set long enough that the fuel filter shattered when I tried to remove a fuel line.  Both will be replace along with fresh fuel and if needed a carb clean.  Engine will run on carb cleaner.

It has a problem similar to the DYT1000.  The rear wheels do not turn.   The lever the should release for pushing works but not easily.

 I removed the gas tank and started replacing the fuel line.  The rubber grommet  for the fuel line might need replacing.  Will order a new one just in case.

The parking brake lock would catch every time the brake was pushed.  The rod in the picture was too long.  A slight increase in its bend fixed the problem.  This tractor must really have taken a tumble.  Hope the motor is OK and the frame not bent.

As you can see the front wheels are toed out.  Really toed out.   Tried changing the left spindle and the rod that pivots it but it is still toed out but maybe not as much not too sure.

I am going to swap out the entire axle see if the problem goes away.  The tierod ends on this machine are in much better shape than the parts tractor so I would like to use the rods off it.

Removed the axle from the parts tractor.  Looks like I will have to remove the muffler on this tractor to get the axle pivot bolt out.

I have been having trouble getting the plastic hub caps off as well as the caps on the spindles.  Carefully heating them with the burnzomatic does the trick.

Been tracking down the front end problem.  Changed the R tie rod. R spindle and the front axle+left spindle.  I am going to change the last tie rod and if that does not fix it it must be the frame.

Moved the tractor to the engine shop.  Should never have put it in the wood shop.

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Installed the gas tank along with its new grommet.  Took the carb off to clean it.  It is one of the Niki carbs and either it is missing its main jet or this one does not work like that.  There is an emulsion tube.  The engine carb parts list is not like this carb.

Found the jet in the ultra sonic cleaner.  Assembled the carb.  Still leaks because the o-ring is bad.  Needs choke to run.   Ordered new bowl gaskets.

Friday, June 3, 2016

Fixed the steering by bending one of the drag links.  Must have bent the wrong one because the steering wheel does not line up but that is easily fixed.

Replaced the o-ring and that fixed the leaky carb but it still did not idle.  Out the jet from this carb in the carb body that was originally on the engine now it the DYT .  That carb was laying in the dirt for some time prior to me getting it and the interior of the fule inlet was rusted.  Scraped it out with a drill bit and did another ultrasound clean cycle.

The engine is now running well.  Busted the handle off the throttle.   Did a couple of short runs with it  seems like the engine at least is a keeper.

But the hood does not line up with the cowl.  Either the cowl or frame is bent.  One option is to try bending the cowl back.  The other is to start building up the other YTS and use this engine on it.

The frame is very weak.  You can feel it flex as you drive.  It is creepy.  Found a post on myTractorForum about adding bolts to existing holes in the back and on the side about where the oil filter is.  Going to give that a try.