Visited a friend today to pickup a pressure washer and this horizontal briggs engine.
While I was there he agreed to sell my the 2 tractor. Both are basket cases so they were inexpensive.
I offered to buy this JD111. A previous owner had a mechanic replace the 11HP with a 16HP twin. As I understand it that worked till it ran low on oil. The tractor comes with a new crank and rods but not pistons. The hood was butchered to get the 16HP engine in. Not sure what to do with this. No deck.
Just for kicks and giggles I may install the 16HP now on the 14.5 Murray. Use if for a yard tug.
He tossed in thes LT1000 without me asking. It has a seized intek of some variety. If the bore is not worn out a new rod might do the trick. Some parts were robbed off the deck.
The tractors are blocked in by other equipment so it may be a while before I can pick them up.
1 Cub/IH 682 - running want to lap valves and clean heads 2 Gilson Super 8 - running does not turn off with key, need connector for charge circuit 3 John Deere 111 - retrofitted with a 16HP twin, now blown *not here yet 4 John Deere 112 - needs gas tank repair and a carb clean 5 Craftsman LT 1000 - Squirts oil out breather after it is warmed up, Todd's 6 Craftsman LT 1000 - seized engine, parts missing from deck *not here yet
7 Craftsman DYT 4000 - running but motor burns oil 8 Craftsman YTS 3000- no motor and torn down
9 Ariens RM 1332 - burned oil. Motor is in bits
10 Murray 11/36 - acquired as junk, motor runs, needs transaxle
11 Murray 11/38 - need to inspect motor internals
12 Murray 12.4/40 - Used it all summer. Transaxle has sloppy axles and needs pulley. Currently no motor
13 Murray 14.5/42 - No Hood. Need to inspect oringinal motor. Currently running with 18 twin that needs starter
14 Murray 18/46 - No Hood. Will not start with key, will not idle without choke, need blades
Another Murray arrived today. I have been waiting for this one.
Model 38618X92A, 38 inch deck model 618 and I think 92A indicates it is from walmart. DOM 1603 ... June 9th 1993
Engine 285707 0126 0293060330
This came to me as a 1 owner tractor and was obviously kept indoors. It has a 4 speed transaxle. The owner ran it without the dipstick and said the engine now makes noise after you run it a while. After replacing the leaky gas line I started the engine and it does sound a bit strange. Did not run it for long. The plan is to tear it down and check it out. Maybe the rod needs replacing.
Examples from the web
Most if not all are from auction listings. Few people are interested in these tractors.
This one has the same problem as mine. I am wondering about the angled gap between the hood and nose. Note muffler alignment with nose.
Same problem here. Nice view of grill.
Another example from almost the exact angle as the one above. This one looks like it has the proper nose hood alignment. I need to compare this with my tractor. Get an image at the same angle.
This tractor uses a similar hood, nose and lights but uses a different grill.
Another example of good alignment. When I get this tractor sorted it is getting a bumper. the additional length takes up more room but then you can just push the bumper of one against the tires of the one ahead of it.
Resumed work on this head because I need the tractor to collect leaves and the high lift blades newly installed on the mower deck, along with the new spindle, use more power than the standard blades. This is just to hard on the existing worn out engine.
Polished the non seating valve surfaces a bit. Lapped the valves and added the springs and rockers. Used gas to do a leak test. The images below are about 2 hours apart.
The flywheel is on but there is not alternator coil under it. I plan to finish that and add the ignition coil prior to bolting on the head. Thinking about leaving the head until after the engine is bolted to the tractor. Need to find the safe place I put them.
Friday, October 23, 2015
Installed the alternator and ignition. But not the kill wire. I could not find these parts so I took them off another 31P777.
While I was there I filed a timing mark on the flywheel with the piston at 1/4 inch past TDC. See "Valve Timing Mark for Intek 31"
I obtained a new gasket and was given NEW updated torque and sequence instructions that supposedly B&S issued to combat this problem. The service manual has the torque at 220 inch/lbs for the head bolts. The new recommendation is to use 250 in/lbs in a new torque sequence. This is what I did. I put on the new head gasket and then the cylinder head and screwed in the head bolt finger tight. I then torqued them down in the following sequence:
6 2 4 8 3 7 1 5
at 80 in/lbs, then again at 160 in/lbs and lastly at 250 in/lbs. The same article say to lube the head bolt threads. Thinking anti seize will work best.