Repulsion Motor Again

These are most likely the brush timing marks.   Strange to have adjustable timing on an electric motor.

One of the motor winding wires shorted out at the junction box and burned off.  I managed to trim enough insulation so I can maybe solder it.   But looking at it I need to clean it up first.

Going to try some carb or brake clean.  Need to use the hot air station to shrink the heat shrink because I don't want a lot of heat on the field windings.

Cleaned the wire with brake clean and soaked with a flux pen.   The crimp part of a spade connector was used to hold the wires together prior to soldering.  There are a few loose strands which I trimmed as best I could.

Two layers of heat shrink were applied over all the wires.  The wires I had previously marked with pink tape are now wrapped with red tape.

The wires are too thick to fit through the original fiber grommet.   The plan is to use silicone seal to lock them in place away from the metal housing.

I also need to reshape the junction box hole to ensure even bare wires have a hard time shorting to it.  But that's why we have a grond…

And after fixing all that I got it rotate the wrong way and kick a breaker in about 5 seconds.     The field windings have infinite resistance to the frame so it must be in the armature.    Now any bets that it will run if I remove the ground ?

Motor Swap Trouble

Tired of fight with the 2 HP repulsion motor.   Have a Dayton 1.5HP that I can use at least until I find a 2 HP.  But 1.5 may be enough.

The problem is I hooked it up according to the motor label for 220V and it don't run.

Not sure why on "Hi Volts"  it says ungrounded side of line.  Neither phase is grounded and neither neutral or gnd are used.












I found this Dayton motor diagram and would like to see one for my motor with is a 1.5HP 6k7408 farm duty motor.

The diagram differs a bit.
6K7408: P1 P2 T2 T3 T4 T5 and T8
Diagram:  P1 P2 T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 and T8


T5 and T8 are the starter winding and that agrees with my motor.

Not exactly sure which are the run windings on my motor because there is no T1.







One would think that the motor should at least hum and it is not.  That would be the case if the centrifugal switch was stuck.

The plan is to check for 240V at the motor, drum switch, and breaker in that order.  If there is 240 at the motor then turn off the power and see if I can ohm out the run and starter windings.  No idea past that.

power checks out.  240 plus all the way to the motor.

Next Day:

I am guessing its a problem with the thermal or overload protection devices.  Have not had time to look at them.  Been looking into the repulsion motor.

Saturday June 2nd 

After taking another run at the repulsion motor, which failed, I am back to this 1.5HP.   The problem was a bad protection / reset  device on the motor.  Apparently it is an over temperature switch.  I removed it and found it was feeding the T1.  That gave me all the bits I needed to connect it without the busted device.  

Had to add a significant amount of weight to the motor end of the platform to tension the serpentine belt.   Have not made chips with it yet but it looks like it is working.    And "Oh Boy" is it quieter.   For that reason alone I don't want the repulsion motor on it.

Unfortunately that's about all the energy I have for today.   Maybe I rest up I can take a shot at making chips this evening.  Film at nine. :)

Perlite and Sodium Silicate Cake

Made a test puck today.  The roll of pink tape was used as a form.

Its not acting like it should.  It is hardening over a period of days.  I attribute that to drying rather than the wanted chemical reaction.

Looks like I need to make new stuff.   Not sure maybe this is contaminated.

Base for Master Mill Electronics

Pattern for the base plate that will hold the Master Mill's DC motor.  The V groove rests over the lathe rear way.

On the first cast attempt everything seemed to go wrong but the resulting casting was useable with a some milling for cleanup.     But I do not have a working mill.   Although the center pocket has sufficient draft it was fragile. The worst was a breakout in the upper right corner of the pocket.   And for some reason the left edge of the rectangle came out tapered.  Not sure how that happened.

So on the second attempt I may add some mails to hold it into the sand below it.   Actually sheet rock screws.   This pour let me know how much aluminum was needed and that there are no noticeable shrinkage issues.   This is most likely because the hollowed out back side reduces the volume.

This time I am going to attempt to feed the mold cavity from the left side so I can cut most of the gating with the band saw.

Rammed up the 2nd but never poured it.  Even with the screws the center section fell apart.  Three choices here.  The 1st is to use the other sand for the center and faceing sand.  The 2nd is to make a core.  The 3rd is to just live with the casting I already have.  Its not show piece but it works and I think that is the better choice.  I can chase this problem while making the pulley.

Not sure why I messing with this 2nd string sand.  I have good stuff but I wonder if adding a bit of bentonite to it will help.  Hmmm

Lathe Carriage Stop

Two videos on this small project.

Constructed a carriage end stop.  The top half is cast aluminum and the bottom is  0.42 hot rolled steel.

The original plan was to have a bolt extend out from the stop and hit the carriage.  When I was about to drill the hole for that I noticed the bolt hole in the carriage.   Unfortunately it only contacts half the stop but that's OK`


Bolts are both 3/8".   Most other frequently used on the lathe use 1/2" wrenches.  At some point the top bolt head needs to be machined down to take a 1/2" wrench too.  Maybe even square ?

I still need to setup a DTI and bump the stop a few times to see if it creeps.  If so I may need to do some crude scraping on the V groove.   Other than that its good enough for now.   At some point I may make another one with a DTI and or multiple adjustable stops.

Master Mills on Ebay

Mostly been doing VBlogs over on YouTube.  Made a new cube crucible for the Kerr 666 oven out of 0.42 " steel plate.   Weights 12.5 lbs empty.  It should stay warm longer than the thin wall one I first made.

Found some Master Mill pics on ebay.  

This box looks familiar.  Wonder if its being sold a 2nd time.

They are asking $10 K for this rather extensive setup.

 This looks like it is the lathe adapter.  Need to look that up in the manual.

Found another one