Craftsmen LT1000(2)

Took another look at the engine.  Could be the tappet bore is a bit crushed causing the tappet to bind.   Maybe a bit of work with lapping compound will fix it. 

Need to be sure I dont mix up the piston with the one from sid, the other unpressurized 31.   Maybe use the crank and rod from the 200hr engine with,a worn out cylinder.

Carb Day II

Time to clean 4 opposed twin carbs.














Carb 1 is from the horizontal twin I played with yesterday. It is installed and working.

Clean








Carb 2 is from the opposed twin that came with the 12.5/40.  It is installed on the test bench.  It is not pumping fuel.   Changed the fosilized vacumn hose but it did not help.  Ordered 3 cheap fuel pump kits from TE  Warehouse.

402417 0687 01

Carb gaskets

692278   intake gasket

690273 air cleaner

271008  or  273186S carb body

Murray 18/46

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/o2b136jx9afbnl2/AAAqzgCoRBYxhU-Bit0gY5KFa

Briggs 6.5 OHV

Pulled this out for use on a generator.  But it needs the fuel inlet

692317 and choke shaft  690023.  The shaft is about $14 at tew.

And it still smokes need to pull the head and check the bore.   

Murray 18/46

Replaced the relay only to find it was good.  I suspect there was a grounding problem.  The new relay (12.5/40) has a busted off post on the cable to the starter.  The cable eyelet is under what was the bottom nut.  If this works long term the removed relay is a spare.

The yellow wire goes to the seat switch interlock.   I have doubts that it should be connected to the battey as it grounds out the coil.

Need to replace the shroud.  Air cleaner bolt that holds the cover is broken.

Wednesday, December 16, 2015


Did that but it did not fire.  Did give me a shock!  It is only 30F so not too suprising.  Should replace the dip stick seal.

Murray 18/46 on Youtube

Found this video.  But vids go away so I took a few stills.

CC 782

Found this CC782 on cragislist.  It has a blown M20 engine and comes with a replacement block. No idea what condition that is in.  Called the owner and it looks like it just might end up in my garage.





A few things have to come together but it should work.

http://easttexas.craigslist.org/for/5323815920.html

International 782 Cub garden tractor the motor has been removed. Was fully operational a week ago. Hydraulic deck lift and 50c mowing deck.Comes with a 20 hp Kohler magnum engine that threw a rod it busted the block but I have another block that can replace the busted block. No trades If its posted its still for sale Thanks Call or text 

The owner said he would hold it for me and has removed the post so it sounds like this will happen.

Briggs 28M707 0128 01 970424ZA, Go-putz

Now that the engines for the DYT4000 and the Murray 14.5 Hybrid are finished it is time to get back to this engine disassembled  in May.  Now that the 12.5/40 is a parts tractor it is clear this engine should go to go-putz.  This is a 11hp engine but with the crank, cam, and carb from go-putz it will be 13HP.  I will keep go-putz's pull start and engine ID.  So maybe this thread should use go-putz's engines ID.

Go-putz's engine was torn down December 2014 and has a worn out cylinder bore.

To rebuild it I will use the block and piston from engine 28M707 1186-E1 9711197A which came from Sid's Snapper ZT with a busted rod.  The bore has .oo4" wear so it can be used as is.

I have the gasket set for this engine which includes the head gasket.

The con rod is broken.   I hesitate to use a used one because the good ones are in engines with worn out bores so maybe a lot of hours.  Should look at the big rod end for wear.   Part  # 494504S tractor list on amazon about $50.   Rod bolt lock is not amazon prime.  Old one?  Need to make up my mind on both of these issues.  With only $50 at stake I would like to get the rod.

No plans to do this soon but it needed to be sorted.

Murray 18/46

Swapped in the ignition switch from the 12.5/40.  No joy. Next we try swapping out the relay.

Found a wiring diagram that could be correct for this tractor. link

Because the solenoid is not operating I need to check the switches on the clutch and PTO because they pass the signal from the key switch to the solenoid.

Murray 14.5/12.5 Hybrid

The engine is done and I need to finish bolting it down.  Should be running/driving tomorrow.





Two known problems.

The rear tires are 2 different heights even though they are the same size.   One is a new highrun the other is an old Carsile.

The last time I drove this tractor the rear end squeaked a bit.  I have axle bearing purchased for the Murray 12.5/40.  Maybe the can be used here.

Thursday, December 10, 2015

Finished bolting down the engine but one of the legs has a stripped hole.  Need to put a longer bolt and nut in it.  Engine starts well but the battery I used is weak.  Charges at 15V.

Two of the blades are missing from the hydro fan.  Lots of parts number for it but so far have not found where I can get any of them.

Dana 5413 (original number) and 5603

Murray 402082 and 402081

It sounds like one of the clutch idler pulleys is bad.  I already replaced one with a pulley from the 12.5/40.  With luck it is not the same one and I can use the other pulley off the 12.5.

The engine does not turn off with the key.   Found this schematic which could be the correct one although it only goes to 40" and this is a 42".


Changed the oil again.  Used some decades old Chevron that was found in the body shop next door.  It was in a paper can and was starting to get soft.  Even found my punch in pour spout!  Oil is a little funky and I hope it is good enough for the next few changes on this tractor.  Sooner or later the oil should stay clean as expected.

Friday, December 11, 2015

aaa

LT1000(2) Will an Opposed Twin Fit ? Sort of...

Wondering if the hood on the LT1000(2) is wide enough to accommodate a 16HP opposed twin.

A first test would be to try the hood on the engine.  If it looks hopeful set the engine on the tractor and retry the fit.

If it don't maybe stick the twin that came with the 12.5/40 into the JD 111(2) since it was already butchered to take one.  Just need to fix the leaking carb.

.....

The hood is wide enough but there is not quite enough head room under it.  It maybe possible to raise the hood in the front and/or back to make it work.  Need pictures.  But this is a go so long as I don't have to make any permant mods to the tractor.   Would be nice just to have it moving.




For nowall this engine needs for now is some carb work.  I am not sure if I will do that with it mounted on the tractor or move it to the test table.

Clean Work Bench & Test Stand

I have been wanting an engine test stand.   I was going to make one out of a tractor but after talking to the guys on M.O.W. I came up with this.



I was already using this bit of roll around scaffolding in the shop. I have a hole drilled in the plywood to make assembling vertical engines easier.  To convert it to a test stand I added holes to bolt down the engine.

Mostly the dash provides a ready made gas tank mount.  But it will also provide a reasonable mount for the throttle and starter switch / relay.   A car battery on the lower shelf will provide the juice.

I am thinking holding the dash in place with pins and clamps.  That will make it easy to remove so the table/scaffold can be used for other things.

The dash is from an the 11HP MTD mentioned earlier in this blog.

Label MTD 137-332-078.

This is what is left of it.








The throttle cable on this MTD was broken but I may be able to use the one from the Murray 14.5.

Not too sure what I will do about the wiring.   The MTD had been retrofitted with a starter button so I expect the switch is bad.   I like the idea of the button.

More to come....

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Fired up the engine I had on my new 'test stand' today.  

Mounted the tank to the dash with zip locks as designed by MTD and used sheet rock screws to hold the MTD dash to the plywood.








When I first hooked up the fuel line gas leaked out of the carb.  When I was done I unhooked the fuel line just in case the float needle is leaking.

Need to add a fuel filter and shutoff to the setup.

It has a ways to go but it is useful as is.

287707 0225 01

Move the engine to the other shop for reassembly.

Pulled the bad fuel inlet elbow.  

Installed the muffler.  Need to find the muffler shroud.

Found the air cleaner from the 12.5HP L-head, originally from the Murray 12.5/40.  Looks like it may work.  Cleaning it up.  The breather tube may work too?  Should clean the carb on the 12.5 engine just to save it if possible.  The choke was stuck.  Another engine left outside in the rain.

The air cleaner base part number for this engine is 696129.   Just found out I don't have the number for the 12.5 engine...   will check the number for its air cleaner when I get it.

This is an ebay image of what should be the correct air cleaner.  There is hole for the screw holding the air cleaner to the top of carb.  The hole in the 13.5 air cleaner bottom does not line up with the 14.5 carb.   Maybe I can just drill the missing hole.  I am guessing the missing hole is the leftmost hole.




There are 2 missing holes.  Wonder what the one in the center is for?

 Downloaded gasket images for the block to manifold, and manifold to carb gaskets.  I need a new red rubber o-ring that goes between the car and air cleaner.

The pixel trace in MTC worked on both images.  I have not yet sized or test cut them.  The manifod to carb gasket serves as a heat shield for the float blow and must be cut from stiff stock.  Files are in "F:\Projects\Briggs\14p5 carb". There is also a block to manifold gasket for the Nikki carb because I did the wrong one first.

The heat shield worked well but the other did not so I took a picture of the intake flange and then drew the gasket using it as a guide.

Trial fitted the carb gasket. Could use a bit more tweaking but it is close enough.

Waxed and polished the shroud.  Working better than I expected.  It has a few dings and scratches but I love the way the red came to life.



Sunday, December 6, 2015

Bolted it down to the table.

Cleaned and installed the cylinder shroud.

The dipstick and tube were missing from this engine. Found one from a similar engine and borrowed the dipstick from the Murray 11/38.  While looking for the dipstick I found the missing shroud buried on the dirty table.  $26 I don't have to spend on ebay.

Tried to run the engine by filling the carb with gas using an oil squirt can.  That did not work.  Maybe the fuel shutoff is not stuck open like I was thinking.  Anyway that will not be a problem when the new bowl is installed without a solenoid.

Attempted to run it with gas and starter fluid.  It did not run long on a squirt.  But then the carb is not connected to anything.  I got about what I expected but am not willing to finish hooking up the carb prior to installing the fuel inlet elbow.
Shot a movie of that.

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

I don't know what I was thinking when I made the above video.  Not only was the carb unhooked from the governor but the bolts holding it to the intake manifold were only finger tight.  I guess I just felt like making a video...

Anyway today I installed the new bits on the carb and bolted it down.  But I got the linkage between the throttle and the governor on upside down.  Did not work well and eventually fell off.


This is how it should be





Found the 2nd exhaust gasket in the bag with the throttle linkages.

Fired up the engine on my new test stand for a few minutes.  The oil was still clean indicating I did a fairly good job of cleaning the dirty oil and real live dirt and sand that got into this engine sitting outside without a dipstick tube.






To clean the engine I flushed it with kerosene, then used oil.  Ran it for a few seconds on carb cleaner. Removed and cleaned the sump then filled it with new oil.

Grabbed the throttle control from the 31A607 0741 E1 engine.   This is the one from the LT1000(2) with a busted rod and a bent tappet guide on the engine casting.

Lost the governor spring from this engine... took the one from the 31A.  I expect I will find the spring with the magnetic sweeper later.


But the engine still would not work properly with the grovenor.  Noticed that the rod from the throttle to the governor arm was rubbing on top of the throttle arm.  After I bent it to provide clearance the throttle response was good.

While looking for a clean air filter from the go-putz engine I snatched the air cleaner too.  It's base is an exact match for this engine.  Need to clean it up and then the engine should be read to go into the Murray 14.5/42.

Still need an red rubber o-ring that goes between the carb and air cleaner.  Maybe there is one on the 31A607 0741 E1.     It is only slightly better than the one on this engine.  Using it but need to order at least 2 better 4.  

Wednesday, December 9, 2015


Plan is to assemble the rest of the engine and install in on the Murray 14.5/12.5 Hybrid tractor.  Mostly air filter and exhaust shroud.  Need to see if I can find a starter shield.  But it could make do without till I trip over one.

Did the above.   Only have 2 bolts on holding the engine in place and they are not tight.   Need to hookup electrical and install the plate that holds the belts in place.

The nasty started used for testing was replaced with a cleaned on with a new gear.



This should be a wrap up on this motor except maybe a follow up on any trouble that may develop.  It sounds good and I hope that does not happen.

It would be nice if the tractor buffed out as well as the engine shroud did!  Post about the tractor will be titled Murray 14.5/12.5 Hybrid.