Pulled the bad fuel inlet elbow.
Installed the muffler. Need to find the muffler shroud.
Found the air cleaner from the 12.5HP L-head, originally from the Murray 12.5/40. Looks like it may work. Cleaning it up. The breather tube may work too? Should clean the carb on the 12.5 engine just to save it if possible. The choke was stuck. Another engine left outside in the rain.
The air cleaner base part number for this engine is 696129. Just found out I don't have the number for the 12.5 engine... will check the number for its air cleaner when I get it.
This is an ebay image of what should be the correct air cleaner. There is hole for the screw holding the air cleaner to the top of carb. The hole in the 13.5 air cleaner bottom does not line up with the 14.5 carb. Maybe I can just drill the missing hole. I am guessing the missing hole is the leftmost hole.
There are 2 missing holes. Wonder what the one in the center is for?
The air cleaner base part number for this engine is 696129. Just found out I don't have the number for the 12.5 engine... will check the number for its air cleaner when I get it.
This is an ebay image of what should be the correct air cleaner. There is hole for the screw holding the air cleaner to the top of carb. The hole in the 13.5 air cleaner bottom does not line up with the 14.5 carb. Maybe I can just drill the missing hole. I am guessing the missing hole is the leftmost hole.
There are 2 missing holes. Wonder what the one in the center is for?
The pixel trace in MTC worked on both images. I have not yet sized or test cut them. The manifod to carb gasket serves as a heat shield for the float blow and must be cut from stiff stock. Files are in "F:\Projects\Briggs\14p5 carb". There is also a block to manifold gasket for the Nikki carb because I did the wrong one first.
The heat shield worked well but the other did not so I took a picture of the intake flange and then drew the gasket using it as a guide.
Trial fitted the carb gasket. Could use a bit more tweaking but it is close enough.
The heat shield worked well but the other did not so I took a picture of the intake flange and then drew the gasket using it as a guide.
Trial fitted the carb gasket. Could use a bit more tweaking but it is close enough.
Waxed and polished the shroud. Working better than I expected. It has a few dings and scratches but I love the way the red came to life.
Sunday, December 6, 2015
Bolted it down to the table.
Cleaned and installed the cylinder shroud.
The dipstick and tube were missing from this engine. Found one from a similar engine and borrowed the dipstick from the Murray 11/38. While looking for the dipstick I found the missing shroud buried on the dirty table. $26 I don't have to spend on ebay.
Tried to run the engine by filling the carb with gas using an oil squirt can. That did not work. Maybe the fuel shutoff is not stuck open like I was thinking. Anyway that will not be a problem when the new bowl is installed without a solenoid.
Attempted to run it with gas and starter fluid. It did not run long on a squirt. But then the carb is not connected to anything. I got about what I expected but am not willing to finish hooking up the carb prior to installing the fuel inlet elbow.
Shot a movie of that.
Tuesday, December 8, 2015
I don't know what I was thinking when I made the above video. Not only was the carb unhooked from the governor but the bolts holding it to the intake manifold were only finger tight. I guess I just felt like making a video...
Anyway today I installed the new bits on the carb and bolted it down. But I got the linkage between the throttle and the governor on upside down. Did not work well and eventually fell off.
This is how it should be
Found the 2nd exhaust gasket in the bag with the throttle linkages.
Fired up the engine on my new test stand for a few minutes. The oil was still clean indicating I did a fairly good job of cleaning the dirty oil and real live dirt and sand that got into this engine sitting outside without a dipstick tube.
To clean the engine I flushed it with kerosene, then used oil. Ran it for a few seconds on carb cleaner. Removed and cleaned the sump then filled it with new oil.
Grabbed the throttle control from the 31A607 0741 E1 engine. This is the one from the LT1000(2) with a busted rod and a bent tappet guide on the engine casting.
Lost the governor spring from this engine... took the one from the 31A. I expect I will find the spring with the magnetic sweeper later.
But the engine still would not work properly with the grovenor. Noticed that the rod from the throttle to the governor arm was rubbing on top of the throttle arm. After I bent it to provide clearance the throttle response was good.
While looking for a clean air filter from the go-putz engine I snatched the air cleaner too. It's base is an exact match for this engine. Need to clean it up and then the engine should be read to go into the Murray 14.5/42.
Still need an red rubber o-ring that goes between the carb and air cleaner. Maybe there is one on the 31A607 0741 E1. It is only slightly better than the one on this engine. Using it but need to order at least 2 better 4.
Wednesday, December 9, 2015
Plan is to assemble the rest of the engine and install in on the Murray 14.5/12.5 Hybrid tractor. Mostly air filter and exhaust shroud. Need to see if I can find a starter shield. But it could make do without till I trip over one.
Did the above. Only have 2 bolts on holding the engine in place and they are not tight. Need to hookup electrical and install the plate that holds the belts in place.
The nasty started used for testing was replaced with a cleaned on with a new gear.
This should be a wrap up on this motor except maybe a follow up on any trouble that may develop. It sounds good and I hope that does not happen.
It would be nice if the tractor buffed out as well as the engine shroud did! Post about the tractor will be titled Murray 14.5/12.5 Hybrid.
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