New Tailstock Key

Somehow I've misplaced the original key for the tailstock quill.  Rather then wait for it to turn up or spend hours searching for it I made a new one.  It is similar to but quite different than the available tapered keys.

Started with a 0.2 inch strip of hot rolled steel.  Marked out the shape and cut it on the HF band saw in the vertical position.  The 2nd photo is the key after a bit of filing but not done.

To get the width just right the key was test fitted backwards in the tailstock keyway. Next it was tested in the final position.  The lip that holds it in the tailstock had to come down quite a bit. The last image is the key installed with the quill in place. The stick out is there to aid in removal.  Not sure if the original did but there is no harm in it.

The key is a tight friction fit in the tailstock and a sliding fit in the quill.   The quill was tight but the key is fairly soft and it soon loosened up.  Its a good fit with less play than the original key.  It may help with the quill locking if it forces the quill to the top of the bore. 

Drip Oiler Gaskets

Although I previously cleaned and reassembled the drip oilers the gaskets leaked.  New ones were cut using cricut and make the cut.

The outside dimension is 1.55" and the inside 1.25.   1.54" may fit a bit better.  My gasket material is a little on the thin side so I used 2 or 3 gaskets in the bottoms.

Tailstock alignment and Dead Center

To align the tailstock we need to know the exact center of the headstock.   This is done by turning a  60 degree taper which can later be used as a dead center.  A pin with threads in the printers junk was used.

In these images you see a smooth center and a rougher one.   The smooth is in the tailstock, other in the headstock. 

The left image, with the dial showing, is taken from the top and illustrates the left/right alignment.  This is easily adjusted with two bolts on the tailstock.   Mr Pete shows a method using a dial indicator mounted in the chuck to check the center in the tailstock.  The plan is to use this to further refine this alignment.

The right image is taken from the side and illustrates the up/down misalignment.  Luckily the tailstock on the left is lower than the headstock and can be raised with shims between the two halves of the tailstock.  The 'interesting' part of this will be getting the tailstock quill in line with the spindle.  If its skewed it will make drilling difficult.

Parting Tool Confusion

Lathe Installation

I calling this lathe installation because the lathe is moving to its working location and hard wired to the buildings electrical system. 

The motor is on the tower and the tower is bolted to the wall with one bolt.  Need to see if I need the 2nd one and then figure out how to make that happen.

The plan is to use 1/2" thin wall  metal conduit down the wall and under the lathe then up to the drum switch.  Run the switched wires back up the same conduit and into the box then small armor cable to the motor.   That should be a 'fun' bit of conduit bending.   It has to clear the edge of the chip tray (in case I get it installed later) and drop to go under the lathe bed then a 90 up to the drum switch.




Need to add images here.

Thursday, January 25, 2018

First chips on Tuesday.  Faced the hub on an old aluminum pulley.   The bit was one I just picked up.  I'm sure it could use sharpening.

Created a casting pattern for leveling feet.  It will also raise the lathe to a better working height.  I'm not sure if it is smooth enough to pull from the mold.   The paint in the images is wet and it may look different when dry.

Lawn and Garden Tractor Update

Removed the JD111, JD160, and the old Murray 11HP with no rear end from the van truck. I pulled the motor from the Murray 11HP.   I think it will go into that strange Murray that shoots grass out both sides of the deck.    The DYT4000, LT1000(2) and the Murray with the Brigs Oppy went into the truck.  No point in having good tractors outside and junkers inside.  Need to figure out a better outside place to store the JDs.

Was gifted with a Cub Cadet ZT.  This is the one I worked on several times.  After I put a new PTO clutch it developed other hopefully minor problems and the owner just wanted a new one.  I tucked it under a 1000 poly tank for the winter.  Not sure what I'm going to do with the thing.  Its a nice ZT but I really have no use of it.

Shop Wiring For Lathe

The plan is to setup the lathe motor for 220V and piggyback it to the breaker connect to the round outlet on the bottom left of the box, that I have yet to use.  The wires will use the conduit on the upper right which is empty.















The image below did not come out well.  IPhone X camera was having fits.  The conduit to the right of the first connector was already in place.  The next two bits and the box were added.  It was easier to use 2 sections for the double bend on the left side of the post.  I'm still debating on what plugs and sockets if any will be used.  Not much of a down side to hardwiring it.  Maybe even drop conduit out the bottom of the box and have it connect to the drum switch.  Need to see if that makes sense.