Craftsman 2400PSI 2.2GPH 5.5HP Pressure Washer

Craftsman 580.768341  Manual is L0209032.pdf

Last time I worked on this machine the honda 5.5HP would not run without carb cleaner as fuel.

Today I took the carb off to clean it.
Image for how the linkages attach and a reminder to replace the tube going to the air cleaner.  I love the way honda attaches its carbs.  3 bolts was all I had to remove.




The main jet came out with a bit of work but it was clogged.  I boiled it for a while and then ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner.  That removed all but the obstruction in the actual jet passage.  To clean it I used my torch tip cleaners.

The emulsion tube did not want to come out either.  A guy in another video knocked the carb on the table but that did not work.  I noticed the emulsion tube extended into the venturi so I pushed it down and back up a few times using a screwdriver.  This and some carb cleaner worked it loose.  It fell out.

Once the main jet and emulsion tube were out and clean the rest was easy. Took out the crew over the fuel transfer port etc.  A few rounds in the ultrasonic cleaner and then put it all back together.






I slapped the carb back on the motor and the thing started on the first pull.  I was not ready for that.   So I turned it off and made a video.




Today I installed the new pump.  The instructions were useless.  About the only bit of info that helped was the note about using the thermal relief valve from the old pump to the new.  Even that was flawed.

To make this happen I needed to sandwich the frame between the motor and the pump using bolts from my stock.  The supplied bolts were too thin and the ones on the unit were too short.

I replaced 2 of the existing bolts with long studs made by grinding the head off bolts.  The motor was strapped to the frame using a web clamp.   The one I use for mounting tires.   The clamp keeps the motor from falling off the studs.  I flipped the unit over on its back.

To keep the engine shaft from sticking too far into the pump I used the provided spacers and two thick washers.  I replaced the 3rd bolt using this setup.   I removed each stud and replaced it with a bolt, spacer, and 2 washers.  To keep the bolts in place I used blue locktite.

The manual shows a o-ring between the engine and the pump, #18. Given that this pump sits over an inch away from the engine I don't see where it would work.

This all sounds easier than it was.  But it worked and that is all that matters.

Unfortunately I did not find any specifications on the pump.   But the original pump was listed at 140F max water temperature.  I expect this one is similar.



A pressure washer should not be started without water flowing through the pump.  So I pulled out the latest Murray and jacked up the pickup so I could clean the underside.







I had some trouble with the wand but got it working.

The brass widget is a temperature sensitive valve.  If the water in the pump gets too hot this valve opens   and drains the hot water letting cool water enter the pump.  It dribbles but does not seem to be a problem.

The unit is usable so for now I am calling it good enough.