Briggs 6 1/2HP OHV (part 2)

I have to say the newer Briggs and Stratton parts manuals cover so many engine configuration that they are confusing.  You might find the part number you are looking for but they give little clue how the engine goes together.  I suppose one needs a service book for that.
This engine had a carb clean and a bath at the car wash.  The exhaust port is busted out but it looks like I can cut threads and put a 1" galvanized or black pipe in it.

Added the carb which leaked when I got it outside.  I had to take it off again to change the bowl gasket because the new one was a bit small and would not seat in the bowl but did work if slipped over the carb body.

Earlier I had the shroud and the throttle/governor assembly at the car wash.  I did a fair job on the inside of the shroud but not so much on the outside.

Not sure why this merits a picture but hey it did need oil.

Feb 12

The head took a bath.  I also chased the threads in both exhaust port bolt holes.  There is enough threads in the busted part to maybe work if I use a wire to tie the bolt down aircraft style.  Or I may try sold alumaloy to fill in the missing area and redrill the hole.  Need to see how much exhaust gets through the gap between the muffler insert and the block.

Cylinder bore looked good and head was clean.

Reassembling the head. From the engine users manual:  Head bolts torque to 210 in/lbs.  Intake at .005 in and exhaust at .010 in.





Feb 13

Lapped the valves and put it all back together.

Did some testing.  The muffler seems like it will be OK. Got the governor closer to useable.  May have a gas leak at the carb but will not know till I switch to the correct gas line.

Feb 14th

Mounted gas tank. Short a few screws for the trim.  Added correct fuel line and it still leaks.  Need to try changing elbow on carb.  Soon this will be moved to the running list.


All this engine needs is a gasket for the muffler and maybe an elbow for the carb.  I will tear of the carb and muffler when I get the gasket.  But it is essentially done so it is moving to the running list.

This is an interesting engine in that it is my only OHV but it is also one of Brigg's weakest engines.  I should have checked to see if it had a cast iron sleeve when I had the head off but i expect it does not.  Maybe I will check when I have the carb and muffler off.

Anyway if all this engine is going to do is sit on the shelf there is no point in addressing the minor smoking problem.  But I may try to solder a lead to the busted off low oil sensor.




Aug 1st 2019

Asking about a metal camshaft on facebook need a few pics.

1968 Cooper Klipper Trim (part 5) gas tank

The cap would not come off the gas tank.   The filler neck turned with it.  Neither ultrasonic cleaning or heating with a propane torch helped.   So I cut the cap off with a dremel cut off wheel.   Unfortunately I now have a slit in the filler neck but I am sure I can solder that to look like new.  I do have a new cap in stock but I may use an old one to keep the look.  May have to repaint and weather the tank.

The tank is now soaking with acetone and a few rocks to shake around.  The tank weighed about twice what it should have when I started so it could take a while.

Status Update

Depending on how one counts things I am getting near the 1/2 way point on the list of projects. But then it was the easy half,  Note that I do not expect to fix all the engines as some will need parts or tools that are too expensive to obtain.

The 8HP Briggs moves from the In progress to the Running list.  Still needs its gas tank coated and a few other things.

The Go-Putz moves from the Unstarted to the In progress list soon.

Moving the 2A016 from the In progress list to unstarted because I have not touched it.

The unidentified Wisconsin is S-8D.  The big problem I know of is the missing carb.


Running   1st, 3rd, 4th Little briggs, Clinton PHD, Briggs 8HP

In progress  Cooper Klipper, Winco Generator, AENLD,  Briggs 6.5OHV,  3Z107B SpeedAir, Go-Putz

Terminal 2nd little Briggs with a bad exhaust valve guide

UnStarted 
2A016 with a suspected broken rod,
10HP Briggs which may need just a carb clean,
Wisconsin S-8D without a carb or exhaust.
Go-Putz Ariens RM1332 with Briggs IC 13HP

8 HP Briggs Trash Pump (part 3)

Put the new carb fuel inlet elbow and new bowl gasket on.  Used a sheet metal screw with a 1/4" head along with a small socket and a washer to extract the old one.  Another trick learned on the net.

Found a regular socket that fits the torx heads on the carb.  The wrench I used for double nutting has died.

But the engine does not turn over because the pump had some water left in it and is frozen.   I hope it is not damaged.

It looks like the pump is OK other than a bad seal

New problem with the engine.  It does not idle down.  So far I have not seen any adjustment to fix it but a rubber band on the governor arm works nicely.  Not that it is a permanent fix but it sort of indicates a missing or mal adjusted spring.






While I was working on the idle problem the little plastic bit on top the choke broke so now the choke will not work with the carb airbox in place. I was thinking of repairing it but it is part of the plastic choke shaft and the entire shaft may be brittle.  Jacks Small Engines has it for $4.50.  I just made a parts order and there is no hurry with this so it will just have to wait till the next order.  The newer these engines are the more parts it takes to make them right.

I can't find the cover and air filter for the air box.  I was thinking it was all wrapped up in the tarp with the engine.

I am moving this engine to running.

Monday Feb 10
Found the air filter and its cover on the bottom shelf of the stand the WinCo generator is on.

3Z107B 3 Cylinder SpeedAire Compressor (part 4)

I did some cleaning on the heads and valve plates.  All the valve screws came out execpt for the two in the center head.

Next I gave lapping the heads a try.  Notice the bright areas.  They were the high spots.  They are mostly around the bolt and screw holes where the metal deformed form the tension.   

The goal here is to sand enough away to flatten the area where the reed valve seals to the head.  I need to put more pressure on the top side where there is more metal.

Either I was getting close or I am getting an uneven surface.  Just a few strokes took took off most of the black on the left side

For now I am going to stop here.   The area around the hole is discolored but smooth.

Luckily the area around the valve was in good shape.  Here are the two with the old reed valves installed upside down.

I noticed a small bit of rocking between the head and valve plate.  By resting both on the glass sheet it seems the valve plate needs to be flattened.

1st Little Briggs 1st run video and Pulsa-Jet friction throttle parts

If you are looking for a more modern pulsa-jet linkage check out  sblg43's video.

All the parts have arrived to restore the missing friction throttles to the 1st and 3rd little briggs.  It is too cold to work in the engine shop so I installed one of the setups on the Cooper Klipper's vacu-jet out of curiosity,

Rust Removal Using Electrolysis (part 3)

The setup from part 2 is not finished but I need to clean a few carb parts for the Cooper Klipper Trim so a much smaller one is needed.   A  soup can was selected for the job.  The cans have a coating inside that has to be removed. But as most people know cans have sharp edges.  I dulled this one with sandpaper.

I scuffed the inside of the can with sandpaper then I set up the old spring as the sacrificial anode.  This should remove the remainder of the coating.  Given that  I do not care about how the can looks I cranked up the amps to 1.

Seems I get more of the brown scum using tap water.  It does not seem to interfere with the process.

After only 10 minutes the coating is starting to come loose. After about a hour I was tempted to use it but why not give it another hour or 2 and get most if not all of the coating.

Now this is getting fun.  A few minutes after this image it hit 18.5V and is keeping the can warm.

This is good enough.

The springs go into the molasses because we don't want hydrogen embrittlement to cause problems.

Here I have added the choke lever arm from the carb and the current went up to .25A.

With the choke control rod off the carb the choke moves easily.  So we need to make sure the linkage is not binding in any way.