Saturday, March 14, 2015

DYT4000 31P777 0348 E1

Cleaned the block, head, and piston.


The engine needed more than a head gasket.  It had a bent intake push rod and the rocker arms were worn such that the valves could not be adjusted properly.  The needed parts were borrowed from the 2nd 31P777.  The valve adjusters were a bit different but worked.  They used a 5/8" wrench instead of of 10 mm.











The engine must have been overheated because the plastic manifold between the carb and the engine was damaged.

The other pipe was OK but the red rubber seal like the on you see on this pipe was cooked.  Need to order a few of them.




The transmission will not roll or move the tractor when running.   Aparently the lever on the back moves this collar (web image) which couples and decouples the rear end from the hydro motor.    Need to see if I can get that collar to move.








I was thinking this lever was supposed to move but I mow think it just holds the spring.   If it were a rotating shaft it would more likely have a nut instead of a bolt.  This looks like it bolted solid to the case.

Not sure need to look again which is why I refrained from pounding on it yesterday.

It turns out that is a lever.



The PB Blaster and some judicial hammering has got it working again.  Took a while.


Once the tractor could be rolled/moved I pushed it over to the south shop because I do not like working on engines in the wood shop.  Hauled the loose bits and tools over using the 682 and the 2 wheel dump trailer.

Next I needed to get the fuel system setup.   The fuel pump is mounted to the plastic engine shroud.

The plastic from the 2nd engine (the JD) was in much better shape so I used it instead of the one that came with this tractor.

I had the tank on the tractor and all the lines hooked up.  Used a tarp strap to hold the hydrostatic control lever away from the rear wheel.  I was able to walk beside the tractor and move it ahead and back under engine power.    But I screwed things up when I tried to instal the seat pan.

You can't see it in this picture but there is an elbow in the bottom of the fuel tank to feed the gas line.  The elbow is shoved into a rubber bushing in the bottom of the tank.  I messed up the bushing.

Need to take care and remove the gas line from the elbow rather than the elbow from the tank.  Found one on amazon for $3 with prime shipping.  Should be here tuesday as well as a new ignition switch.

The seat/fender pan is held on by 4 bolts.  Two go into the running boards and the two that hold the seat springs down go into the gas tank hold down strap.







I have the valves set too tight.  The engine will not start warm.