AENLD (part 3) magneto

When I worked on the rollers ANELD engine I swapped the magneto with the one on this (the spare) engine because I could not get this one working.

Today I started by checking the condenser using the Mondo Superprobe which I built a few years back.  The condenser checked out at .28uF which is very good.  But it was rusty so I went over it with some 600 grit sand paper.

I reset the points to .015in and put it all back together.  While testing it fired the neon bulb, shocked me an burned a hair or two in the process.  Good bet it is working.  But I am working on a tester to measure relative ignition voltages.  There will be an update or a post when that happens.


Need to get a c-clip for the points and hit the cover with another coat of poly.  I don't know if it will hold up to the heat but it is worth a try.

3Z107B 3 Cylinder SpeedAire Compressor (part 3)

I am taking a bit of a risk and using reverse plating with distilled water and washing soda to see if I can remove the iron rust from the aluminum cylinder wall.    I am pulling it down every 1/2 hour and scrubbing it with a not too aggressive scouring pad.

Not much was happening so I decided to amp it up for a while.  Next round I cut it back to .25A and 9V.

Progress as of 11 PM.

It seems the warnings about checking it often had to do with lightly rusted parts.  I am going to let this run overnight at 1/3 amp.


I changed the water and am only getting 5.4V at 1/3 amp.  I am thinking this maybe due to a higher level of washing soda in this batch.  Need to start measuring.





Pictures of the heads.

DIY Shop Cargo Lift

Last year I built this lift to move stuff into storage over an interior room of the main shop building.  It uses an electric hoist and garage door roller running in wood tracks.

I have stills of the track construction that I will add when I come across them.

WinCo POWER-MITE Generator (part 4) Recoil Start

The recoil starter on the WinCo generator was replaced with a rope cup.  I would like to put it back to a recoil.

AENLD (part 2) continued from Carb Day

The spare ANELD needs a carb and a magneto that works. I have also been told one needs to pull the pan and ensure the oil pump/squirter is working. With these things done it should run.

It is too cold to work outside so I figured I would finish up the ANELD carb.  I opened it and found that I had not cut a bowl basket.

For someone like me with lots of spare time cutting gaskets makes economic sense.   The pulsa-jet gaskets on top are at least $1 each and I only found the L63E bowl gaskets in kits.  I expect they are at about$5 each.  And lets not forget shipping.  By the time I get done with these engines I may have paid for the cutter and software if I don't count my time.

Note that I also use this setup for cutting solder paste stencils and EPDM rubber washers so it is not a gasket only setup.

I have been good about keep all small carb parts in little tupperware like containers for each carb.  For some reason the venturi for this carb did not end up with the rest of the parts.  I moved it to a safe place last week and now I can't locate it.  This gives me an opportunity to take the carb back to the shop to loosen the governor rod and sticky choke.

The governor rod came loose with a bit of heat from the oxy-propane setup.

1968 Cooper Klipper Trim (part 3) Meet the Vacu Jet

If you are thinking this is a screwdriver rather then a carb you are correct!  Today while looking for an impact driver bit I located my bent screw driver and managed to get the carb off.

These images are of the carb prior to cleaning.  That riser tube is red because it is coated with varnish.  I wonder how much of the rest of the carb is in this condition. The tank is horrid with the stuff too but that is another post.

The carb has no fuel pump and only has 2 screws holding it to the fuel tank.

The only part I plan to remove for cleaning is the main jet needle valve assembly.

The spring looked rusty prior to cleaning and it came out nice looking. The bottom and a few crevises were still nasty so I scraped them.

Getting there after about 4 cleaning sessions in the cheer laundry detergent.

When I pulled it from the cleaner the first time the bit of tin in the carb to swirl the air fell out.  Where is it ?

Thinking about removing and soda blasting the rusted bits. Maybe repainting them.

It is always surprising how much dirt comes off a carb.

When cleaning like this always check the bottom of the cleaner when draining it for any parts that may have fallen off.

Next we change out the water for fresh with just dawn dish soap.

Getting the choke and other linkages working just right needs special attention compared to the stand alone engines.    Here I have just managed to pull the choke out for the first time using a shop rag over the knob and a pair of pliers.  I tossed it back into the cleaner 1 more time to remove the crud exposed by moving the choke.

A little silicone on the slide and a touch on the rod where it moves through the hole has it moving well.  Even snaps shut most of the time.  Still not quite there.  I expect it will come off from gas vapors.

I needed a clear look at what the linkages should be.  The one on my carb are somewhat abused. So far this is the best I have found.

Prior to removal of engine.

http://recoveryvehicles.tpub.com/TM-5-4240-501-14P/css/TM-5-4240-501-14P_113.htm

Found this "Fig. 68 - Choke-A-Matic Linkage"

I do not see any good reason to remove the muffler if it don't want to come.   But I will move the lock nut to the far end and maybe after it runs a while it will come loose and I will reinstall it with anti seize.

The fuel tank is the next thing to look at and it is the worst one yet.

Carbs in Waiting

This is just for fun but then so is the entire blog.

Once I know an engine has spark I go after the carb.  I often have 3 or 4 carbs ready to go in my office where I store them.    For no good reason I am posting an image of the 3 currently ready to go.  One is from the WinCo Generator, the AENLD, and the one for the 6.5OHV engine.

Briggs 6 1/2HP OHV (part 1) 121432 0153 E1

Given that the 8HP L-head needs parts I figured I would bring this one out and see if it needed any obvious parts.  The prospect of working on a OHV engine has my interest.

The exhaust header is loose on the head.  Not sure the bolts might be stripped or sheared off.  Gravity feed so no fuel pump to fix   It did not have any oil but I think that happened when it was moved en mass with the rest of the engines. .

12	Cubic inches
1	Series 1
4	Horizontal
3	Ball Bearing
2	Recoil Start

 The good news is that it did fire with a shot of starting fluid.

The carb is off.  I hit the outside of it with carb cleaner to wash away the old gas smell.  It looked decent when the grime was washed away.   Next I ran it in the ultrasonic with hot tap water a couple of times.  Then I took the bowl and bowl o-ring off and ran it a few times in 140F water.  Carb is 21473.  Bowl gasket is stretched but I used it anyway wonder if it will leak.  A new one is on the list of things to be ordered.

Cleaned and ready to go if the bowl gasket does not leak!   I need to check to see if I need to cut gaskets or if the ones from the pulsa-jet will fit. Remember to tighten carb bowl nut.

Just prior to tear down.  I did not take any images but the ones needed to put it back together.



























I wonder if this broken exhaust port is the only problem this engine has.

WinCo POWER-MITE Generator (part 3) Carb

Late this afternoon I pulled the carb off the tank and ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner several time.  This evening I finished the job by heating water to 140F on the range and cleaning it a few more times. The pump cover was a bit difficult to remove but a razor blade did the job.  The fuel pump diaphragm may be serviceable but I will replace it and keep this one for a don't care engine.  The spring is flat.  Only a few bits of the carb were painted yellow as you can see in the following 2 pictures
The hot water took much of the paint off.  The good news is the carb to tank gasket is in nice shape and I can use it to check my electronic pattern.

1968 Cooper Klipper Trim (part 3) It won't budge

Today the head came back off with the idea that I would lap the valves and get the carb into the cleaner.  It did not go that way.

I got the lock nut loose on the muffler.  The carb was put on with screws so about all I did was look at them.     The muffler is still stuck.

3Z107B 3 Cylinder SpeedAire Compressor (part 2)

Given that the military engine has internal problem I am going to have to select another engine to replace it at least in the short run.  That is provided I get the compressor fixed.

The Wisconsin AENLD can not be used because it will not work without its gear reduction. The candidates for this are

1. Briggs 8HP L-head trash pump
2. Briggs 6 1/2 OHV trash pump  (maybe too small)
3. Briggs 10HP L-Head insect fogger

Engine #3 has the advantage that maybe we could run the belt for an electric starter in the rope pull start sheave.

If I have to pull start it I want the easiest to start engine.  Wonder if the OHV engine #2 is easier to start then the L heads.

The 3rd head came off today thanks to a bit of encouragement and some heat.
The head came off with the last bolt. It seems they were seized to the head rather then the cylinder.

These are the worst 3 bolts and it seems they have some good thread on the bottom where they were in the cylinder.  Maybe chasing the bolt holes will be enough.

The stuff in the cylinder looked like a disgusting lump. But it was more like a powder.  I have a video. Please forgive the lame title.

Tuesday January 28

Level of penetrating oil in cylinder is not going down.  Removed the set screw in the flywheel and filled it with PO. Tried wheel puller and a little heat.   Moved it out to the picnic table and hit it with the air hammer.  Need to give it more time.

Seems I was too impatient to allow more time but it worked out.  A 3 jaw wheel puller PB blaster in the allen screw hole and a lot of elbow grease did the work. I tried the air hammer but I am not sure if it contributed to the success.

One can not see much inside with the end plate off.

At first glance the roller bearing looks good.

The serial number.

Next up is to cut off an allen key to fit under the jugs.





The parts illustration shows that each connecting rod has its own crank journal.  I think the thing to do next is open the bottom up and pull the two end pistons







My local copy of the manual is at F:\Dropbox\Manuals\speedaire/3Z170b.pdf.

Wednesday January 29th

Today I managed to pull the 3 pistons and rods.  The center piston only came off because I unbolted the cylinder jug.  Now I need to try to get it off without damage to the piston, jug, and rings if possible.  Maybe too much to ask.

I started making a video but had to let the ice melt inside the compressor case.  When I started taking the rod caps off it was such a greasy mess I did not want my ipod around.