Sunday, January 19, 2014

3rd Little Briggs (part 1)

 8 Cubic inches 
 0 Series 0
 2 Horizontal
 3 Ball Bearing
 2 Recoil Start

In earlier blogs I had reported that the one shroud I had came from the 2nd Little Briggs.  The photo on the left shows that it was originally on this engine.  Not a big deal but wanted to set it right.

Since I first got these engines I had been wondering how to get the pump plate off this engine.  What I thought to be a threaded collar turned out to be a seal.  It was just a mater of taking off the 4 mounting bolts and a pry bar.

This looks to be a points ignition so I will borrow the one from the 2nd Little Briggs.  We know that one works.

The idea with this engine is to mostly get it running and see what we have.

  1. General but not to where you could paint it cleaning.
  2. I do not see any point in opening the case if there does not seem to be any play on the rod bearing.    Maybe rinse it out with gas.
  3. Rebuild the carb and clean the gas tank.  
  4. Remove inspect and most likely lap the valves.
  5. Reconstruct carb linkage
To clean the engine I am going to pull the carb and exhaust.  Remove it from its mounting base and spray it with gel engine degreaser.  Then off to the car wash.  We will see what is needed after that.

I am hoping the diaphragm in this carb's fuel pump is good.  I have 3 on order but it will be a while and I would like to get this one running sooner then that.

Drained the oil.  It was not even fully black.

I also removed the flywheel magneto, and the bit of tin off the cylinder.  The muffler is loose but in place.  The fuel tank is off but the carb is still on to keep water out of the block.  Maybe give it a bit of an initial clean too.  Coated most of the engine with gel grease remover.   After lunch it goes to the car wash.

Image on the right is the engine at the car wash.

The valves looked so good I left them alone.

Carb after cleaning. The diaphragm was stiff and the spring collapsed.  I tried stretching the spring and cleaning the diaphragm but they were too far gone.  New parts on Tuesday.

Monday January 20th

The key had been stuck in the crank but I managed to pry it out.  It looked rather suspicious and my trusty magnet confirmed it was steel.  Aluminum should be used for these keys because the key is intended to sheer should the crank suddenly stop.  Using a steel one can result in damage to the crank.

To continue I borrowed the key from the 2nd Little Briggs which has become the parts donor for now due to its bad valve guide.