8 HP Briggs Trash Pump (part 2)

I posted on SmokeStack and the best suggestion to cool a pump while testing the engine was to keep a hose running in the pump.

A city worker said this was a good engine but the pump would not make suction.   I am not sure that he wasn't confusing it with the OHV engine.  He figured the pump impeller was worn.  It could also be a seal but I am wondering if one could fix a worn impeller by filing or milling the case down and maybe lapping the impeller to the case.  Or just shimming the impeller forward.

The main jet on this carb is stripped.  The jet was clogged and did not open with ultrasonic cleaning.  I poked it open with a wire but that does not open the side passages.

Unfortunately the heater on the ultrasonic cleaner has died.  It does have a year warrenty.

Plan to clean the carb.

1. soak jet with carb cleaner
2. clean in the ultrasonic using water heated to 140F + dawn + ammonia
3. Blow out with compressed air
4. repeat

I wonder if carb cleaner is less effective at 8F.  Maybe better wait on this till it warms up this afternoon.  Ah where there is a will there is a way.

So the idea is to spray the carb outside and then seal it in the plastic box and bring it inside where it is warm. In theory the house will not end up smelling like carb cleaner.

I placed an old mower tank above the engine and it started with a bit of priming.

The carb seems to be clean I will know better when I get the fuel pump hooked up.  The problem is The plastic elbow.  The part runs $5 to $10.  To get the old one out you rip the plastic out and then

I wish I had thought to put some cleaner in the fuel.

To do the testing I poured a 5 gallon bucket of water into the pump.  I also pulled a 3 inch chunk of concrete out the bottom of the pump.  Has me wondering if it chewed up the impeller.   I guess that is a good reason to take the pump off.  But I am some what worried about ruining the seal when I do.  Need to get the pump number and find a diagram.


Tomorrow I will pick up some new gas line if there is any in town.  Then I can hook in the fule pump which seems to be working.  I pumped the crappy gas out of the old line anyway.  Maybe pump some clean fuel through prior to hooking it in to the carb.  Need a 2nd gas tank for that and the one that goes with this engine needs to be red-kote'd.  I do not want to do that till I am sure it is really working.
 Yeah still do not trust the carb.

Saturday January 25th

I changed the fuel lines and it ran for a short while a stopped.  The fuel pump was not working!

To be sure I would not loose anything the pump was opened on the workbench rather then the picnic table.

The diaphragm, gasket and pump spring were good but the 2 tiny little springs were missing.  This image and the one above were take immediately after splitting the pump so I know I did not loose them.  They are tiny fiddly bits and I can understand how they can get overlooked or lost in a field repair.

This diagram came in handy when hooking it back up.  The missing springs are #4.

With the repaired fuel pump back in place it started and ran.   But the fuel inlet on the carb still leaked like crazy.  I should order a new bowl gasket too.

When the fuel inlet arrives I need to pull the carb to install it.  Then I can put the engine plastic and sheet metal back in place.  That should wrap it up for the engine.  

Note to self.  Change oil.